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scubasteve
Jul 26, 2004, 4:30 AM
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i'm heading to the bugaboos next weekend, i was wondering about some awesome climbs out there.
i've been wanting to go there for almost 2 years , and now i finally have the chance. (i feel like a little kid on x-mas eve, lol)
if anyone has some suggestions please let me know (5.6-5.9 range)
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maculated
Jul 26, 2004, 4:49 AM
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maculated moved this thread from General to Canada.
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topher
Jul 26, 2004, 5:31 AM
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i would recomend that you get the good guide book... its the elaho one you will know by looking at both the other one sucks... and i aslo recomend that you stay at the camp site and not at the kane hut.. at the camp ground your closer to the climbs not so craped and its just better... have fun its a great place
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cjburchell
Jul 26, 2004, 5:28 PM
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I spent a good 1 1/2 weeks there two years ago and did a pile of climbs.
These are some of the ultra classics and must do's in that range
Pigeon Spire:
West Ridge 5.4 (mostly 4th class but some excellent views)
Bugaboo Spire:
Kain Route 5.6
NE Ridge 5.7 (1 of the 50 classic climbs in NA recommend doing the Kain Route before so you know the decent)
Snowpach Spire
SW Ridge 5.8+
Crescent Towers:
Ears Between 5.7
Lions Way 5.6
Also I highly recommend McTech Arete (10a) if you can lead 10's
Hope you have good weather.
Christiaan
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mountrobson
Jul 26, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Been there a few times, climbed grade II to IV routes, and wouldn't even consider a trip to the Bugs without taking yet another trip up the W Ridge of Pidgeon!! Be sure to check out alpinedave's website -- lotta good stuff there. Have fun -- it's a cool place!
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cliffraven
Jul 27, 2004, 6:07 PM
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scuba, my advice to you is bring LOTS of chalk! (haha!)
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scubasteve
Jul 27, 2004, 7:06 PM
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hey cliffraven, are you calling me a chalkwhore? lol (is it wrong to like a little powdered courage?)
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scubasteve
Jul 27, 2004, 7:43 PM
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thanks for the advice everyone. it looks like we're definatelly going to do the kain route on bugaboo spire.
then we're undecided if we should do the west ridge of pigeon spire, or snowpatch route on snowpatch spire.
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awreynol
Jul 27, 2004, 8:53 PM
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:D I would be careful about doing Snowpatch its pretty serious and way more committing than Pigeon Spire. The Kain Route is excellent and a good route to do before attempting the NE Ridge. As for Snowpatch I'd be confident 5.9+ leading before embarking on that journey. The Bugs are an amazing place. Get an early start and be off before the afternoon thunderstorms. Applebee campground is the bomb. Have fun!
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bradpatchin
Jul 28, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2003
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HI
I live in the area, and was planning on going in there for the first two weeks in august. But wound up short for a partner. If anyone one is interested or needs a partner Let me know.(please)
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cliffraven
Jul 28, 2004, 3:45 AM
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yes, yes scuba i am calling you a chalk whore. I want to come to the bugaboos but unfortunatly i am going to kelowna to lie on the beach in a bikini with some of my girls and maybe get some climbs in as well...none of the girls climb but i'm sure i can find somebody out there.
i heart climbing more then *blank*
e
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scubasteve
Jul 28, 2004, 4:36 AM
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hey cliffraven, hmmmm, girls on the beach in bikini's, or climbing in the bugaboos??see you in kelowna, lol.
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cliffraven
Jul 30, 2004, 4:37 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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haha! stick to pumping gas there scuba!! have a great time in the bugaboo's...wish i could join but it's beer with the girls and sunshine this weekend...all the way!! going hard on the climbing scene next week. give me a shout and we can go play. wanna hit up some good .10 leads. BRING IT!
e
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