|
chugach001
Jan 31, 2003, 8:16 PM
Post #1 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 311
|
I have work in DC and free time afterward. How's the climbing at Seneca and is it worth the drive? I prefer long trad moderates (8-10) and usually climb out west. I've heard comparisions to the Gunks - does it? Can you recommend a guide book? Any other info or opinions are much appreciated.
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
eastsider
Jan 31, 2003, 8:26 PM
Post #2 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 22
|
There is the current guide by Tony Barnes and there is a "select" guide in the MD, VA, WVa, guide by Eric Horst.
as far as being long...most are 2-3 pitches...some can be combined into a longer enduro pitch.
The rock is kinda like the Gunks but turned sideways. All the cracks are vertical, and for the most part it is pretty exsposed. The rock is Tuscora Sandstone. Small nuts and brassies/rps are key here for the harder climbs (10 and up mostly). There are sport routes but most of them are mid 11 and up.
All in all its pretty hip. Hope you get to check it out. Enjoy.
cheers
Adam
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jan 31, 2003, 8:28 PM
Post #3 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Yes, yes, and yes.
Get the Eric Horst guidebook. The Barnes guidebook is hard to use.
It's only 3 hours from DC... I'd be impressed if you can find me a solid multi-pitch trad area that's closer.
Watch out, the grades may seem a little stiff on your first trip to Seneca. There are lots of classic 5.7 routes (Soler, Ecstasy, Pleasant Overhangs) which you might want to warm up on even if you are a solid 5.10 leader.
ps. If you prefer longer routes you might want to check out Nelson Rocks, which is right down the road from Seneca. It is less crowded and has the 11-pitch 'Millenium' (5.7) which is actually quite a lot of fun. The directions to Nelson are also in the Horst book (reason #2 to buy it instead of the Barnes book -- sorry Tony, you rule, but the production values on your guidebook suck)
Since someone will invariably complain about how cold it is right now, allow me to point out that it will be 57 degrees and sunny on Monday at Seneca Rocks. East Face anyone?
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-31 12:32 ]
|
|
|
|
|
jerrygarcia
Jan 31, 2003, 8:29 PM
Post #4 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 837
|
When are you planning this trip? Hope you like cold weather!
|
|
|
|
|
jakeh76
Jan 31, 2003, 8:41 PM
Post #5 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 23
|
Seneca has some awesome trad routes, not many sport routes. Be sure to keep an eye out for loose rock. There is usually lots of it, especially this time of year. I'd suggest trying some of the .7's even if your a solid 10-11 sport climber, plus there are some of great routes at this grade!! Check out: Soler (East Side), Pleasent Overhangs (East Side) Awesome!!, West Pole (next to Pleasent Overhangs), and Ecstasy (South End--short walk). Ecstasy is great to start with so you don't have to walk up the hill to start...you just climb up to where the other routes are. Take care, be careful have fun!! I'm going down this Sunday.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jan 31, 2003, 8:45 PM
Post #6 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Dude, West Pole and Pleasant O's are on the West Face. They'd be good afternoon routes in this weather.
So would Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn (all on the Face of 1000 Pitons), and the Burn (over near Ecstasy).
Good morning routes would be Ecstasy, Conn's East, Soler, High Test, Castor, or Pollux. All of those save for Ecstasy are on the East face and get morning sun. Ecstasy is south facing and gets sun pretty much all day long.
|
|
|
|
|
theclimer
Jan 31, 2003, 9:11 PM
Post #7 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
Quote:I'd be impressed if you can find me a solid multi-pitch trad area that's closer.
Hmm, how about Harpers Ferry? That's definitely multipitch if you use a 50m rope.
Are you impressed?
- Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jan 31, 2003, 9:16 PM
Post #8 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Not really. Great Falls is multipitch if you use a 20' rope and are dumb enough to lead there...
|
|
|
|
|
theclimer
Feb 1, 2003, 12:03 AM
Post #9 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
Quote:Not really. Great Falls is multipitch if you use a 20' rope and are dumb enough to lead there...
Well, you KNOW...I'm dumb enough to climb with you, so all bets are off... Plus this guy Tim stole all my lead gear and ever since I've had to lead on a 20' piece of bright orange nylon cord I picked up at Home Depot on sale.
Seriously, Harpers Ferry is a good two pitch climbing area, at least for me. 45 minutes from my house, allows me to practice my leet anchor skillz, and there's even a dirt-rag 5.1 to climb there if I'm so inclined. And who can resist the lure of 100+ years of coal soot encrusting the rock in the middle of August on a south-facing wall???
regards,
jeff
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Feb 1, 2003, 12:05 AM
Post #10 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Dude, it's not my fault you ditched your aid stuff with me, then ran off and had a kid. Serves you right. Mshore shined me on the Mordor... said something about a chick in Zion. You wanna ante up?
|
|
|
|
|
tradclmbr
Feb 1, 2003, 12:15 AM
Post #11 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2002
Posts: 238
|
I climb on the West Coast and climbed at both the gunks and at Seneca when I was visiting friends in DC. Seneca much closer drive and easily worth the effort (and then some). An amazing fin of multipitch climbing.......listen to the grade warning though...I led Soler last summer and it was an extremely difficult 5.7 (read its not 5.7 by west coast standards and if your in the immediate SF bay area they'd call it 5.10a
|
|
|
|
|
theclimer
Feb 1, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #12 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 81
|
Quote:Dude, it's not my fault you ditched your aid stuff with me, then ran off and had a kid. Serves you right. Mshore shined me on the Mordor... said something about a chick in Zion. You wanna ante up?
Well big boy - I've got to talk with the wife, but probably the best I can freaking do is to commit to a blitz on the Mordor in late spring - late May? Can you hold off your aid fix until that long? This kid thing is eating an inordinate amount of time and effort and I'll be lucky to get a long 4 day weekend by then if I don't want to end up with a divorce. 'Course, then I'd be single....
And I'd at least like to have the opportunity to get in those Russians a few times beforehand...
PM me and let's see what works. I am still psyched on a wall before it gets too hot this year, and heck maybe we could even turn it into a Cathedral Destination Party.
|
|
|
|
|
charley
Feb 1, 2003, 2:42 PM
Post #13 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
|
seneca is definetly worth the drive. Whatever you climb in trad, it has it. If you want long, start on ecstasy and then walk to west face or broadway ledge and take your pick for a few more pitches. It's easy to rap down and do another route if you have time. In a long day in the summer you can get all the routes the body can handle.
|
|
|
|
|
charley
Feb 5, 2003, 1:48 AM
Post #14 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
|
cold and maybe snow.
|
|
|
|
|
roninthorne
Feb 5, 2003, 2:27 PM
Post #15 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 659
|
Expect weather to turn completely around on most days. If it's clear and still when you get up, expect wind, some clouds, and assorted forms of precip by the time you summit. this will, of course, all go away about the time you reach the front porch of the Genderme, where those "in the know" will wisely nod, and newcommers will look at you in disbelief and tell you that "it looks fine, dude!"
Conversely, if it is cold and grey and windy when you awake, there is a good chance that, barring the advent of a major frontal system, you could be climbing in sunshine by lunch, albeit sunshine with the occasional snow flurry or rainshower. Layer warm and smart and adjustable, and you can pretty much do Seneca year 'round.
And if it craps out, well... WELCOME TO SENECA!
[ This Message was edited by: roninthorne on 2003-02-09 12:06 ]
|
|
|
|
|
bouldertoad
Feb 6, 2003, 4:01 AM
Post #16 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2002
Posts: 352
|
Quoted by Roninthorne---"Expect weather to turn completely around on most days. If it's clear and still when you get up, expect wind, some clouds, and assorted forms of precip by the time you summit. this will, of course, all go away about the time you reach the fornt porch of the Genderme, where those in the know will wisely nod, and newcommers will look at you in disbelief and tell you that "it looks fine, dude!"
Conversely, if it is cold and grey and windy when you awake, there is a good chance that, barring the advent of a major frontal system, you could be climbing in sunshine by lunch, albeit sunshine with the occasional snow flurry or rainshower. Layer warm and smart and adjustable, and you can pretty much do Seneca year 'round.
And if it craps out, well... WELCOME TO SENECA!"
That perfectly sums up seneca climbing in the winter months. One more thing to add........no people in the winter so it is much better if you can handle the cold
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Feb 6, 2003, 6:19 PM
Post #17 of 17
(2992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
link to article mentioned above:
Psychotic Reaction
note that if you ever want to search through the articles but don't feel like thumbing through the index, there's an Articles Search option in the left-nav bar to do a fulltext (google-style) search of all the Articles.
|
|
|
|
|
|
