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shabado
Jun 30, 2003, 6:31 PM
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I'm hoping to head out to Devil's lake Sept 2-5 and am in need of a partner. Mostly trad but up for anything. Lead up to 5.9 trad/5.10 sport.
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brianthew
Jun 30, 2003, 7:12 PM
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I'm gonna be up in the Twin Cities then, but...
...just in case you haven't been at the Lake before, the trad climbing is a bit different than most places. It's super-hard quartzite, cams walk like crazy...be sure you bring hexes and nuts, the rock is bomber but very, very slippery. Start small on the trad (really small)...climbs there are kinda underrated as is.
But if you've climbed there, you know what I'm talking about.
Have fun.
PS: Lower Diagonal Crack may be short and like 5.8 but it ain't a good lead....I learned this the hard way.... :D
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ramylson
Jul 10, 2003, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: ...just in case you haven't been at the Lake before, the trad climbing is a bit different than most places. It's super-hard quartzite, cams walk like crazy...be sure you bring hexes and nuts, the rock is bomber but very, very slippery. Start small on the trad (really small)...climbs there are kinda underrated as is.
Starting small at the Lake is definitely a good idea.. but, the climbing is solid. Heck, you'll never have to worry about the rock breaking. About the cams though, you can place cams at the Lake without any problems, but it's not the normal plug and go that you can get away with at other areas. Heck, I do a lot.. fallen on them as well without any issues. It just comes down to this: you need to place cams just like you would a stopper. Look for "imperfections" in the smooth quartzite (bumps, small breaks, etc), which will allow the lobes to actually "bite" into the stone. Of course, nothing will beat a solidly placed stopper..
Oh, get used to standing on dime edges..
In reply to: PS: Lower Diagonal Crack may be short and like 5.8 but it ain't a good lead....I learned this the hard way.... :D
I've never led it.. but have had a friend lead it twice. Both times were hillarious due to how pumped he was just before he pulled onto the ledge 2/3rd's of the way up. You know it's bad when the guide book says something to the extent of: "an exercise in placing protection on the run." One of these days I'll actually cowboy up and lead that sucker. But, Upper Diagonal is so much fun, it's hard to switch..
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ramylson
Jul 10, 2003, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: I'm hoping to head out to Devil's lake Sept 2-5 and am in need of a partner. Mostly trad but up for anything. Lead up to 5.9 trad/5.10 sport.
I'm sure I'll be running around the crags that day.. IM me closer to the date and maybe we can work something out..
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lynelle
Jul 11, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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Not to steal thunder here, but I'm looking forward to climbing D.L. either 07/26 or 08/02-08/03. I'm very much a beginner, but enjoyed my last time up there, climbing a 5.6 with no trouble. I need the practice, and would appreciate the opportunity to climb with anyone who'll have me!
I'm also available Tuesday afternoons for the summer. Thanks!
Debbie
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shabado
Jul 23, 2003, 10:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 6, 2003
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Hey thanks for the info ramylson. I'll IM you closer to the date and maybe we can arrange something.
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