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mowz
Feb 13, 2004, 3:56 PM
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What did I get myself into?
Ok. Here we go, another shoe thread and, hopefully, it will end up as infamous as Pork loins as big as your face.
I will get first say since I am the author.
Mad Rocks rock! Those lovely Mugens are lovely indeed. My first pair were the Pheonix and I fell in love. They even smeared GREAT up at D.L. and D.L. is like climbing on ice!!!!!
The Pheonixes stretched out though, so I bought the Mugens. Lovely!
That's my $.02
Blah.
P.S. Blah.
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organic
Feb 13, 2004, 4:29 PM
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I have never climbed in MadRocks, but do not see many hard climbers climbing in them. You say is that the definition of a good shoe, well yes and no. I climb for performance so I want a performance shoe. I like Velcro and slippers better than laces those those are also factors affecting my shoe choices. Boreal shoes I like but they seem to have a problem with heel sizings and their heel cups fit weird too big bad for heel hooks on my foot. Again are they really performance shoes? seems 5.10 and La Sportiva have been around the block, they are just not trying to make a buck but sell a good product a performance product. Yeah the price is greater but the performance is also, you get what you pay for a lot. The most common shoes professional climbers seem to climb in these days are the 5.10 - Anasazi and V10. La Sportiva - Katana and Miura. 5.10's Anasazi velcro is performance. The velcro closure system is better than most and yes the velcro straps matter to allow different tighteness. The heel fits my foot perfect and they have great sensitivity. The rubber is incredible and i climb in them about 12-18 hours a week. I bought them in Oct, Nov. last year and no delamination at all. The nylon cowdura allows for minimal stretching so you can never stretch them out. Very impressive. Expensive? well I paid $109 for my pair. Quality by far some of the best.
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ramylson
Feb 13, 2004, 5:26 PM
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You have to remember.. the reason you see all the pros using a certain shoe is from sponsorship deals, etc. Of course, that just means that the shoe ends up being a bit more expensive (have to pay for it somewhere). Part of it is construction as well.. I know that the La Sportiva's are still made by hand in Italy, which also increases the wholesale/retail pricing. 5.10's aren't, but a lot of what they have is image. Don't get me wrong, they're still a great shoe, just different marketing tactics.
There are actually a lot of good shoes on the market currently (look at the new Climbing Buyers Guide for a look at what companies have out currently). What would I climb in? Currently have the La Sport Katana, and I love them. Stiffer fore-foot, making it a rather powerful shoe. Especially at Devil's Lake, where I use them almost solely as a trad shoe. But, I do use them both bouldering and sport climbing. Just a nice all-arounder I guess. Rubber is alright, but I'm more a fan of the stealth rubber. To bad none of the 5.10 shoes fit me. Well, other then the Ascents. Good pure trad shoe which I typically use out west. I'll probably just stick with the Katana's, but the new La Sport Venom is peaking my interest. As well as the Montrail Cruiser as a pure trad shoe.
Yep, that's my two cents.
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greenspace
Feb 13, 2004, 6:10 PM
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i've only had 2 pairs of climbing shoes, and boreal shadows will be my 3rd. i just want to try something new. not sure, but they seem pretty top notch :wink: i'll let it be know when i find out.
but i agree anasazi are sweet and so are most 5.10's. why not call them 5.14's?
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brianthew
Feb 13, 2004, 6:15 PM
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LaSport Miura: The official shoe of Brianthew. Third pair and counting.
Basically, the lace-up Katana.
Big fan of them at Devil's Lake; it has a very sharp edge to it and this edge lasts longer than softer rubbered shoes (5.10, MadRock). Stand on those credit-card edges and seams at the Lake with confidence. Not bad for smearing, either. They work in cracks well, but you have to have a decent pain tolerance for that.
Once I get the pair I sent out for a Stealth C4 resoling back, I daresay I shall possess a most excellent shoe.
Problem = price. About $130-140 for a pair.
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reprieve
Feb 13, 2004, 7:55 PM
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In reply to: LaSport Miura: The official shoe of Brianthew. Third pair and counting.
Hey, I have a pair of Testarossas. Have you tried these shoes?
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ramylson
Feb 13, 2004, 7:57 PM
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The Testerossa's are a decent shoe, but to specialized (IMO). Not only that, but price. Actually, have a great video clip from a trip down to HP40 where a friend of mine tried his on for the first time. The guy couldn't even stand up straight on 'em. Probably one of the most hysterical things I've ever seen..
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thegodfather
Feb 13, 2004, 8:10 PM
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got a pair of mocs and dragons, dont need nothin else...
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reprieve
Feb 13, 2004, 8:11 PM
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In reply to: The Testerossa's are a decent shoe, but to specialized (IMO). Not only that, but price. Actually, have a great video clip from a trip down to HP40 where a friend of mine tried his on for the first time. The guy couldn't even stand up straight on 'em. Probably one of the most hysterical things I've ever seen..
lol, i know what you mean! they really suck for standing/walking/anything other than being on a wall! but they're great on the wall. most people i know who haved used muiras and then tried testarossas never went back. i personally haved never worn muiras, so why do you like them better? (i.e., what do you mean when you say "too specialized?)
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dancingmadlybackwards
Feb 13, 2004, 8:45 PM
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well, since my name is in the subject..... 8)
Mowz is such a visionary... a thread writing extrordinar, if you will....
I am right in line with the thread... im also on my 3rd pair of Muira's,(yeah brian) and have been tempted to give the Testerossa's a whirl. Heck, i dont walk straight anyways... and my Muira's definately turn dimes to quarters, so maybe the upgrade will turn them to silver dollars. :)
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mowz
Feb 15, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Nice.
Everyone makes a good point about 5.10's and La Sportiva's, but if you research a company, most of the new brands coming out like Mad Rock and Evolve (sp) are made by the people who have worked for bigger and more popular companies like 5.10, Montrail, Boreal, La Sportiva, etc. I'm not sure who started up Evolve's company, but I do know for a fact that Mad Rock was started up by former workers of 5.10.
What do you peeps think about this? Are new companies that were started by people who have worked for bigger companies like 5.10 or La Sportiva less trusworthy than the big companies? Is the quality compromised?
My $.02: I believe that most shoes out there now being created by new companies are just as good and may even be better. The only difference is the price and their popularity due to the clientel (sp) that bigger and older companies have acquired.
Blah.
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rokklym
Feb 16, 2004, 12:14 AM
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I've gone through a ton of different shoes through the years. Started out with old 5.10 Summits, then went to Sportiva Vipers, Boreal Stingers
( Great Shoes ) then Moccasyms ( On my 4th Pair now...probably one of the all time best shoes made, IMHO ) Then went to Cobras, Huecos, Miuras, Mojaves, then back to Cobras. I think that 5.10 deffinetly has the right recipe for rubber, and LaSportiva deffienetly nails it in the construction and fit department. Boreal seems to have a couple decent designs and a ton of flops, plus their rubber is way below 5.10 and LaSportiva.
I wouldn't mind getting a pair of Miuras or Katanas. The Miuras I had were way to small and the only reason I got them was that they were only $40 so I thought I'd try them. Devils Lake is deffiently the perfect proving ground for a shoes edging qualities.
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brianthew
Feb 16, 2004, 12:29 AM
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In reply to: What do you peeps think about this? Are new companies that were started by people who have worked for bigger companies like 5.10 or La Sportiva less trusworthy than the big companies? Is the quality compromised?
I don't think quality of the actual product is compromised, but I do think other qualities, such as customer service, are better with the smaller companies. Ask anybody who's dealth with Evolv's customer service, I've heard nothing but glowing reviews about it.
The biggest hurdle I have in switching to another shoe manufacturer is the risk taken when doing so. To be honest, I really don't listen all the much to other people's evaluation of shoes; some shoes that people rave about I absolutely hate and vice versa. I know Miuras work awesome for me, and I know exactly how to break them in, etc. Call me a coward, but I like sticking with what I know works.
If Evolv had a local dealer, I might give them a go. Shame that they don't.
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daggerx
Feb 16, 2004, 1:08 AM
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I have been climbing for 11 years now and I have worn out many different types of shoes over the years. And now all I ware is mad rocks. I currently own 3 pair and have my name on the list to get a pair of the loco and frenzy velco's. I love them the rubber is way better then C4 on any type of rock.
DX
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madrock
Feb 16, 2004, 5:51 AM
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Greetings All
Regarding Good climbers wearing Mad Rocks, please check the recent results of any climbing competition here in the USA you will see more climbers in Mad Rock than any other brand. The entire team will be posted on the site soon for everyone to check out.
Personally I find the feedback from the people on this site more important than that any paid or sponsored climbers and the vast majority that feedback is great about Mad Rock.
I hope those of you reading these forums realize many of the so called "climbers" are actually working in the industry and have a bone to pick with one company or another. I will continue to keep our comments from mad rock on the record.
Joe :twisted:
Mad Rock
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reprieve
Feb 16, 2004, 2:45 PM
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just because other climbers (even if they win comps) wear mad rocks, that doesn't mean I/you/we/anyone else should. To each his/her own.
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greenspace
Feb 16, 2004, 3:01 PM
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TRUE DAT. reprieve!
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organic
Feb 16, 2004, 4:12 PM
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I have honestly never seen anyone looking for a high performance shoe choose mad rocks when price was not a factor. Besides mowz of course but he is wack G!
PS. How many of these climbers who win the comps are sponsored by said mad rock company? The unsponsored climbers I know who climb 13 and above either wear 5.10 or La Sportiva. I have just yet to see a high performance mad rock shoe. Or is there one I am missing?
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quickclips
Feb 16, 2004, 5:03 PM
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From what I can tell, mad rocks rubber is really soft and sticky, so it smears well, but it wears out fast.
I've been a huge fan of my 5.10 mesa's super stiff, and I can still feel the rock. But they have a rough break in period.
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cliffhanger9
Moderator
Feb 16, 2004, 5:15 PM
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hey all!!
this is a great bunch of reviews here!!
we have been doign alot of work lately on getting the gear reviews section of this site but it can only be a success with your help
i know russman has been workin like a mad man to get the shoes section updated so try to utilize this great resource!!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/shopping/index.php?c=51
thanks and rock on!! :mrgreen:
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greenspace
Feb 17, 2004, 12:25 AM
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gracias cliffhaner9....
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ramylson
Feb 17, 2004, 3:47 PM
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In reply to: i personally haved never worn muiras, so why do you like them better? (i.e., what do you mean when you say "too specialized?)
I personally don't have the La Sport Muiras, just a modified version of it in the Katanas (roughly the same last, just different closure system). Both are fairly powerful shoes.
As far as the La Sport Testerossas, I say that they're to specialized because there's no way that you're going to use that shoe for trad. Additionally, going back to what you said about standing in them, wearing them for an entire day bouldering would be brutal. Especially if you're working on something where you'll be coming off the problem on a "regular" basis. I'm not saying that these shoes won't work, or that people don't use them.. just my opinion.
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lynelle
Feb 17, 2004, 3:53 PM
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5.10 Ascent Velcro fit me like a tight glove. Their ideal. I wear a womens size 8.5 and I bought my Ascents in a 39. I can't believe how good the fit is. Snug around the ankles but not so tight as to cause blistering, and the toes are slightly bent, but not to the point of being super uncomfortable. I have high arches from years of ballet and the arch in this shoe conforms to my foot perfectly.
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mowz
Feb 17, 2004, 8:05 PM
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To respond to *******'s post, seeing that s/he singled me out:
Perhaps the reason why people who climb 11's, 12's, 13's, etc. climb in 5.10's and LaSports is because of the publicity and advertisement that 5.10 and LaSport and Boreal and etc. can afford.
For example (con'c; that's concentrate for all you non chemistry people):
5.10 has this incredible advertisement of Dean Potter free soloing El Cap (it can be found in the newest issue of climbing). When you look at pics in the mags and videos, you see SPONSORED climbers. Now, what John/Jane Doe also sees is if they wear those shoes, then those shoes must be good. The reason why those infamous climbers don't switch to another brand could be due to preference (and most likely is), but don't tell me that contract agreement has nothing to do with it.
Big companies can afford to sponsor climbers more than small companies can. They can also afford much better advertising. Mad Rock's best advertisement is just a pic of their latest shoe.
Another important message from your Mowz:
Please don't "crush" or "talk down" about other brands of shoes if you haven't tried them. I've tried 5.10's and Mad Rock's are comparably (sp) better for me. I haven't tried LaSports, but I haven't degraded them either, and if I have, I'm a hypocrite.
BTW, where can I get a pair of Evolv's?
I would also like to say that I do not wish for this thread to advertise for companies, but that wish is an impossible one. Every time we mention a brand, it's an advertisement. To ease this problem................
Blah.
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ramylson
Feb 17, 2004, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: BTW, where can I get a pair of Evolv's?
This might help you out:
click me, please.
EDIT: Actually.. this would probably be better:
no, no.. I'm better, click me.
Place in IL too.
I'm more of a "it is what it is," kind of guy.. but same thing. :wink:
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