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jds100
May 30, 2003, 9:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
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David wrote:
In reply to: OK. Kinda a related question. I will be going to S. Illinois to climb with some friends in June. I know its not the ideal, but living in the midwest, the choices are limited (1 month 19 days 'til I move to Denver). We will be camping at Ferne Clyffe. We are all in the 5.9-5.10 range. TR or Sport. I've been looking over the info. on this site, but of the different spots in the area, which would you all recommend. Also, I have done one sport climb at 5.9. Anyone have a recommendation on good introductory sport climbs in the area. Thanks David
I'd suggest checking Cedar Bluff and Draper's Bluff. They are about 5 minutes apart, offer short easy hikes to the cliff from the parking area, offer easy access to the top for TRing, have lots of routes in close groupings, have a wide range of difficulty and plenty of easy and moderate routes, etc. etc. Jackson Falls has a number of moderates, too, with two distinct areas that have good groupings of routes in the 9 - 11 range. Here are some specifics, but check the Routes Database, too.
At Cedar Bluff you'll hike to the base of School Yard Blues, 11a. Take the path for a few yards to the left, and you'll come to an obviously popular staging area. You should be looking at an obvious wide easy crack route, Mike's Meander, 5.5 trad with bolt-n-chain anchors. To the immediate left is a 10a (Dentention) with the first bolt up high; you'll want a BIG hex in the vertical crack at the first ledge before that bolt. Left of Dentention is Africa, a 5.8 TR, with bolt-n-chain anchors. Up and left of Africa is a fairly easy to recognize hallway scramble to the top. At the top, go right to get to the anchors of the aforementioned routes. Scramble over the big boulder chockstone to the left to get to the top of the cliffline, where you can follow the path to other anchors for other routes.
Back on the ground, going further left (west), you'll come to a 90 degree dihedral. This is Cave City, 5.6 trad. Follow the path down to the big "cave", and you'll see some bolts up on the face. This is Dizzy, 5.8 variation through the slot above the first belay. Getting up on the route might take a little bit of work and some good spotters; then slot a cam in to protect against a swing for the second climber. Follow the bolts left onto the face and then straight up on big stuff to the hanging belay (bolts-n-chains). Going to the bolt out further left instead of up makes it a 10a. There's a great sense of exposure, and the hanging belay is fun. The second pitch, 5.8, goes up through the slot to the finishing slabs to the top. The last move below the anchors might feel scary, but it's well protected. The rap down is free-hanging; make sure you flake out the rope evenly so you know both sides are down, and tying knots in the ends of the rope wouldn't hurt, to prevent rapping off the ends. (Going straight up the trad crack at the very start is Unfinished Symphony, 10a trad. You need to know how to set up a bomber trad hanging belay after turning out from under the awkward roof. The second pitch -to prevent rope drag- goes out right and up kind of a ramp, to one bolt, to finish on top. A bad belay setup will ruin the trip.)
Going right from the staging area: right of Mike's Meander is a 11d/12a sport route (easy to reach top anchors for TR) Let's Play Doctor/ Itty Bitty. TRing means swinging way out from the cliff face when you pop, though; it's hard to get back on. Right of Itty Bitty is High Flying Bird, 5.8, bolt and trad, bolt-n-chain anchors. Here you need good trad pro to protect the cruxes. It could be ugly to have pro pop out there.
Moving down from Schoolyard Blues (do it on TR), you'll come to more stuff that I have listed in the Routes Database for Illinois on the site. Ghosts and Goblins, 10a; Dos Equis, 5.9; are highly recommended. Community Property,5.9, next to Ghosts and Goblins, can be TRd off webbing anchors on big trees. Thomas Bear, 11a, can be TRd easily by a long reach over to clip the anchors while clipped into the Dos Equis anchors (it's a brutal start, and sustained thin hard climbing on sharp edges). You can rap off trees to the anchors for April Fool, 10a, near the east end of the bluff.
Draper's has many, many more routes, and many more easy and moderate routes. Access to the top is fairly easy. Start at the fence at the right (east) end of the climbing property (near High Over Camp, 10 trad), and work your way west. There are a number of moderate bolted routes on shorter detached areas in front of the main taller cliff. One outstanding sport route, west of the fence is Fancy Lads, 10c. After the first 2 or 3 bolts, the rest of the route is relatively easier, up to a great belay under a huge roof. The height and exposure is worth the effort; make sure your rope is even and down on both sides for the rap from the top. Look for Monarch in the Database, too; you'll probably want a nut for a vertical crack in the middle of the route, and it can also be easily set up for TR by going up the access gulley behind it. There are others you'll find in the Database, and many not listed that you'll find when you get there, but don't miss the easy trad route Bloody Nose, 5.6. Great view up top.
At Jackson Falls, check the Gallery (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=1601); there are a number of 10s, and anchor access for all of them is easy from the top trail, or after climbing a route to the top. Also at Jackson Falls, check the second section of the Beaver Wall (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=1612), and routes on the Mr. Jimmy Boulder (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=1611).
Andy Lemon might have some more suggestions, too.
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dkwyler
May 30, 2003, 11:21 PM
Post #2 of 3
(1280 views)
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
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Great. Thanks for your help. I'll print this out and bring it with.
David
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andy_lemon
May 31, 2003, 6:33 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Sep 7, 2001
Posts: 3335
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I think Jeff covered most of it... the gallery at Jackson Falls is the most popular area for moderates. It won't be hard for you to find something to climb at Jackson, most everything is top ropeable if you are not sure of the grade.
All joking aside, watch out when you goto stick your hand in a jug or pocket... during the summer months they are a common breading ground for spiders. I don't know how many times I've had a heard of spiders crawling down my arm while I was hanging on a pocket. If at all possible, try and blow out the pocket/jugs before you make your move.
Andy
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