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cinderlick5205
Oct 8, 2006, 4:18 AM
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I've been spoiled by the rocks in San Diego (Tahquitz Suicide J-tree). I am on my way out of military life and thinking about going back home to WI for school. Hunting and fishing are my old hobbies, but not ready to give up trad climbing or any other form of climbing. Is it possible to have both in WI? Any information to the climbing scene would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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climbingaggie03
Oct 8, 2006, 8:58 PM
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Well, lets see, there's some climbing at interstate falls that can be led on trad gear, but the climbs there are pretty short, all single pitch, some as short as 30 feet. also the rock there is very polished and makes me think that it would spit cams out. I don't know about the climbing around devils lake, but there is always the north shore, and I think there might be some climbing in the UP. Basically, if you are used to climbing in Socal, WI doesn't compare, but there is a little bit of rock to keep you fit for trips, but then there is leinies too which doesn't help with the whole fitness thing.
I love wisconsin, I've spent 3 summers leading trips in the north woods and I want to go back for number 4, but if you want to be climbing, I don't think that moving to WI is going to help you with that.
good luck
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hibby11
Oct 8, 2006, 10:50 PM
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Theres plenty of trad at Devils Lake if your good at placing gear. It seems like whenever i'm there only the passive stuff is used because that rock just doesn't work with cams but theres definitely enough climbing there for you.
H
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cinderlick5205
Oct 9, 2006, 5:50 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to respond, I will take your suggestions into consideration.
Cheers!
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redpoint73
Oct 9, 2006, 1:09 PM
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There are something like 500 trad routes at Devils Lake. As mentioned previously, they will not compare to anything out west, or out east for that matter. The routes are generally 50-70 ft. with some fun crack and face climbs. The routes are situated close to each other, and mostly are easily approached, they are just short. It is a very pretty area, with a glacial lake nestled between 2 foothills with rock cliffs. I would say its worth some visits while you are there.
Bolting is prohibited by the park, so its all TR and trad. You may find a random routes with a few bolts on them, but they are ancient rusty quarter-inch coffin nails.
The quartzite a the Lake is smooth and frictionless. Probably the slickest you will ever climb. Smearing is often impossible, and most footholds are crack and edges. So you will get some intense edging and footwork practice if you climb there.
Growing up in Chicago, I climbed at the Lake for 5 years, and placed plenty of cams there, and saw other leaders do the same. The rock is very slick and smooth, so there is some fear of the cams skidding out, so try to place them in spots where the rock bottleneck and tapers narrower in the downward and outward direction. There are often lots of places to put stoppers, and hexes work very well at the Lake, since the cracks tend to be very parallel and smooth. Some people also like to use tricams in the horizontals.
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cinderlick5205
Oct 10, 2006, 1:32 AM
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Thanks for your response. Can you recommend a guide book to the Devils lake area? What are the majority of the routes rated?
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potreroed
Oct 10, 2006, 2:01 AM
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Wisconsin has tons of trad climbing--not just at Devil's Lake, which has 1500 routes (not 500)--but also on the many Eldo-like sandstone outcrops that dot the central part of the State. There is also a bit of limestone to add to the mix. The small size of the rocks 60 to 150 ft. is made up for by the unsurpassed quality of the rock and the routes (ranging from 5.3 to 5.13) are as good as anything you will find anywhere.
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cinderlick5205
Oct 11, 2006, 1:37 AM
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What guide books do you recommend for the areas you've mentioned?
Thanks for the information, its sounding better!
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bertalmio
Nov 13, 2006, 9:58 PM
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west-coster stuck in midwest. climbed at DL for 5 yrs now. never had problem w/properly placed cam there - and even taken some whippers! tricams are money there, again, if placed well. smearing is possible if done with correct body positioning. not like granite - the key is to get ur butt down low and have a solid hand jam going. imoh, DL is great place to learn/practice trad 'cause the routes are relatively short and can be well-protected. for a fun ride, try queen's throne, or something more challenging - brinton's crack. lost face is fun, too...
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quickclips
Jan 16, 2007, 3:03 AM
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As far as a guide book, right now there is only one REAL devils lake guide book. Its called...climbers guide to devils lake? either way, there's that one, its blue and white and a falcon guide with isn't very complete. go with the DL one.
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