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tcollins
Feb 11, 2003, 4:41 PM
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Back to the Valley of the Sun I come. We got our tickets to Phx in April. Planning on doing some backpacking and catching up with some old friends. Myself and foograbbingstone will be looking to get some climbing in while we are out there. Unfortunetly my wife and our other friend don't climb so we won't be able to go out everyday that we aren't backpacking and won't be able to travel too far.
Right now it looks like we might be able to get out on either the 18th, 19th, or 20th. I was looking at Rock Climbing AZ and came accross Little Granite Mountain. Looks like a good mix of climbs. We're looking for some easy trad lines, and moderate sport and TRs. Having never been there, I'm wondering if it is worth it or should we look to go elsewhere?
We might try to swing Camelback on the morning of the 24th after we get out of the woods and before we head to San Diego. I have been there so I know what to expect, but it's close so a few hours there isn't a big deal.
Any info would be great and hopefully we can hook up with some of you. Later,
TD
[ This Message was edited by: tcollins on 2003-02-11 08:42 ]
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epic_ed
Feb 11, 2003, 5:01 PM
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Dude, PBC is the weekend of the 25th. You gotta extend your trip a few days and get out there for that!
Little Granite is nice -- reasonable approach and some good trad lines. Pinnacle Peak is worth a visit. Route ratings are a little stiff (or I'm a ninny...which is more likely). Sven's Slab and Tom's Thumb are also in the area and you should definitely get up to one of those. No sport climbing in the area other than Queen Creek. If you go up there keep in mind there will be parts of QC that are off limits due to the upcoming PBC.
Ed
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climblouisiana
Feb 11, 2003, 5:06 PM
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Little Granite Mt. is a pretty good area. There are some good climbs in the Loaf area including both gear and bolted routes. Some of them should be easy to set up as top ropes if you like. This area is more secluded then Pinnacle Peak which has many people hiking up the main trail. If you don't mind crowds (mostly hikers), Pinnacle Peak may be a good choice as well. It is easily accessible from a major freeway. If you want to get away from crowds, Little Granite would be better. Just be sure to check the Arizona Mountaineering Club's schedule. They may be in that area in April and will take up every possible climb in the area.
Camelback has some fun, exciting routes and it is very accessible if you don't mind waiting for parking.
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tcollins
Feb 11, 2003, 5:36 PM
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Thanks guys. I'd love to stick around for the PBC, but this, being a group trip and not just a climbing trip, dictates that we head over to SD to see some old friends too. Kinda bummed, but I love SD as well.
I'd like to avoid the crowds some, but we'll have to see. That's a good tip to check on the AMC's schedule, as that would definitly not be cool.
Camelback and parking, two words that really don't go together. We'll probably get dropped off so my wife can have the car to go see her old students, so no problem there. Thanks again.
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sonso45
Mar 3, 2003, 3:03 AM
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I think you might like a route I put up couple years ago at Camelback, if you want a 4 pitch day. Do Donamatrix, a fun 2 pitch 5.8 sport climb up the tallest section of the Headwall and go do the right variation of Hart Route on the Gargoyle wall above. You can rap down Pedrick's Chimney and walk down to the Monk for a 5th pitch! Good luck.
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me_lad
Mar 3, 2003, 8:10 PM
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You could check out the superstitions, more specifically bark canyon wall, which has some multi-pitch trad lines which are excellent, the long lead 5.8 and glory road 5.7.There are more good ones, but those are the two i have done so far.
Also gardeners wall near tom's thumb in the mcdowels has some great routes. Just did hanging gardens (5.5) at the weekend and it was an really cool easy route.
For sport check out Queen Creek, more specifically upper and lower devils canyon and the pond.
-M.
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crackaddict
Mar 9, 2003, 5:50 AM
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Little Granite is OK but I would rather go to the Mc Dowells instead. Much better quality granite and a lot less cactus hiking. Sven slab is a good moderate area. Gardners Wall has Long esy routes as well. Pinacle peak is cool to but the climbing is spread out.
Camelback has some cool bouldering. More renound for the bouldering now than the climbing. If you do climb instead of boulder there. Climb the east face of the Praying Monk 5.7 (ultra Camelback classic!). Cool route withe a nice summit.
Have fun and PM me if you need any partners.
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mountaindoc
Mar 9, 2003, 6:54 AM
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Little Granite mountain is closed from Januaryish to julyish, so don't count on that. :cry:
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tcollins
Mar 11, 2003, 9:31 PM
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
crackaddict: That route on the Monk was actually my first climb. We're just using Camelback was to fill a morning b/f we head to San Diego, so no big expectations there. I think we'll have a full day now due to schedule changes so we might look elsewhere.
Any word as to why Lil Granit is closed? This is the first I've heard or read about a closure there. We might be out in the McDowells then. Hmmm.
Well for those of you that are interested, we (myself, foograbbingstone, and jumaringjeff) will be climbing on fri the 18th and maybe a full day on monday the 21st. Drop a PM or a post if you'd like to get out and have the time.
Thanks again.
TD
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crackaddict
Mar 11, 2003, 9:54 PM
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I think he meant Granite Mountain in Prescott is closed. Due to the annual perigrine nesting. That goes from Feb to July.
I have not been out to Little Granite for some time. But the last I heard is that you can get ticketed if you dont have a permit to be out there. Because of it being on state land.
So you might want to check first if you decide to go.
But like I said why go there when the Mcdowells have much better quality granite and so much more to offer.
Later..
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tcollins
Mar 11, 2003, 10:04 PM
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Sounds good.
crackaddict, I think you've sold me. :lol:
I'll take a harder look at the McDowells. Thanks for all your help.
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foograbbinstone
Mar 11, 2003, 10:46 PM
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yeah what he said.........hehehehe
Thanks for the beta 8) 8)
TD................Jeff
I cain't waite to sample some good AZ sunbaked rock, alitlle trad here alil bouldering there
Hike and camp for a few days.............. I can feel the stress peeling off in layers :D :D
Yiiiiiiiiipppppeeeeeeeeeee !!!!!
:!: :!: :!:
Thanks
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jumaringjeff
Mar 12, 2003, 3:28 AM
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dude, i am soooo stoked for this trip...you don't even know. warm rock, warm sun, tshirts and shorts, beers, my trad rack, and good company...what could be a better combination after such a shitty winter?!
lookin' forward to meetin some of you AZers!
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tcollins
Apr 16, 2003, 1:39 PM
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Thought I'd bring this back up for a day or two. Foo, Jeff and I will be climbing in the McDowells on Fri the 18th and Camelback on monday the 21st. If you happen to be free drop a PM (we leave thursday night) or just keep your eye open for a group of 3 guys. I'll probably have my old dirty D-Backs hat on :lol:
Hope to meet some of you.
TD
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tcollins
Apr 16, 2003, 6:51 PM
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Just a little bump since I proabably posted the last one before Phoenix was awake :D
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epic_ed
Apr 16, 2003, 7:05 PM
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You guys should have a great time. The weather is looking excellent for the weekend -- highs in the lower 70's for Friday. Don't let the temps deceive you. If you're going to be over at Sven's Slab, it's in the shade all morning and the temps will feel very cool. I'm not sure if you have a guide book for the area (Phoenix Rock II, Greg Opland), but PM me if you want to borrow mine for the weekend. I'll find a way to meet with you Thursday or Friday.
Ed
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tcollins
Apr 16, 2003, 7:13 PM
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Thanks Ed. Believe me, after the winter we had in Boston, I'm looking forward to the weather in Phoenix again. A little cool in the morning is fine with me (as long as it doesn't snow :lol: )
I have the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Will this be comprehensive enough?
TD
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