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jerryderl


Dec 22, 2002, 5:03 AM
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someone please help!!I have lot's of options apparently. I WAS planning on going to Jack's, but climbing just ranked it the second worst crag in the US. Maybe I should go somewhere else? I am from MN, long drive. Also we are going in late Jan. Weather should be considered. Where would it be most worth our trip?
The Pit, Sedona, Jack's Canyon, Oak Creek, Overlook,Paradise Forks Queen Creek,Camelback Mountain
McDowell Mountains, Little GraniteMountain
Thumb Butte, Promised Land,
Granite Mountain, Watson Dells
Mt. Lemmon, Cochise Stronghold?


jt512


Dec 22, 2002, 5:15 AM
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Jacks isn't that bad, if what you are looking for is sport climbing. However, it's cold there in the winter. I'll let the local AZ climbers give you beta on the alternatives.

-Jay


jerryderl


Dec 22, 2002, 5:25 AM
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What's cold? I'm from MN I just went last weekend in TF cause it got to 40!!


climbsomething


Dec 22, 2002, 5:31 AM
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Lawsy. Jacks isn't that bad, it's actually a load of fun, and far more natural than the 1" brief in Climbing makes it sound. There's a thread about Jacks being on the 5 Worst list somewhere around here, but I am too lazy to find it at the moment.

But Jay is right, it'll probly be cold. I hear you can chase the sun but I've never tried in January. If you're feeling up to trying, keep an eye on the weather forecast for Winslow, AZ and have fun crankin'!

That said, if you want to play it safe and be far more likely to find warm weather (you aren't coming to AZ from MN to be COLD are you?!), consider climbing in Phx or Tucson. I know some good places down here, and now that I have the approaches figured out , I can take you there for the low low price of a 6-pack of RockStar or Monster drinks and a case of those vanilla yogurt PowerBars... the ones in the blue wrapper


climbsomething


Dec 22, 2002, 5:42 AM
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oh, "cold" forecast for this week = 35 hi/15 lo, snow (the Jacks book says it doesn't really accumulate in the canyon, but you might be a bit nippy anwyay. or is that downright balmy still? )


jerryderl


Dec 22, 2002, 5:47 AM
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is there anywhere in the US that's warm in late january w/out having to drive to J-tree? Watching the weather I always remember thinking AZ always sounded so warm.


climbsomething


Dec 22, 2002, 5:53 AM
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Well, AZ is pretty mild, as long as you stay in Phoenix or points south (and, in Tucson, stay on the lower half of Mt. Lemmon. There is some elevation to be had on the ole local sandpile )

You may also have some luck with Red Rocks or the St. George, UT area...

But you know you wanna climb in Arizona


curt


Dec 22, 2002, 5:54 AM
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Jared,

When are you planning to come to AZ? Arizona can be warm this time of year or a little cold--a bit of a crap shoot. However, I recommend Oak flats about 70 miles East of Phoenix as a good choice. I'm going out there tomorrow, in fact.

Let me know when you might be here. I grew up in Edina, MN. and started climbing at Taylor's Falls. Then I finally realized that I was free to go--and got the hell out.

Curt


kalcario


Dec 22, 2002, 6:20 AM
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Instead of driving from Minn to Az, which sounds real fun, consider this...keep an open mind(should'nt be hard since you elected Jesse The Body)...ok ready?


Barcelona Spain


NO PLACE in Az. holds a candle to Siurana or Montserrat, flights are way cheap that time of year, there's also southern Spain with Sella, Gandia,..the rest days in Spain are slightly better than in Winslow or Tucson, way more bang for your buck than Thailand or Australia, you can be cragging 15 hours after you leave St Paul think about it

[ This Message was edited by: kalcario on 2002-12-22 17:15 ]


winkwinklambonini


Dec 22, 2002, 10:59 PM
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Prescott all the way.


spydermonkey


Dec 23, 2002, 12:55 AM
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Queen Creek is a blast in my opinion. What type of climbing will you be doing?

spyder


micronut


Dec 23, 2002, 1:21 AM
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I'm with Kalcario all the way, I'd go to Spain.
winkwink, Prescott? plueeese!!


curt


Dec 23, 2002, 1:30 AM
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micronut,

Prescott is great--just not for this time of year.

Curt


fritzski


Dec 23, 2002, 1:39 AM
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The McDowells and the Superstitions would offer the lowest elevations and therefore your best shot at warm temps on any given day.


kalcario


Dec 23, 2002, 2:00 AM
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*I probably bouldered V9/V10 or so at my best, which was about ten years ago.*

I have this habit of looking at the profile of those whom I respond to...

No offense Mr Shannon but this sentence from your profile raised an eyebrow or 3 here, as a peer of Professor Gill I'm sure you are 100% legit, but V9 or V10 was a VERY high standard for 1992 and I'm surprised I have'nt heard your name before...then again I don't have Stone Crusade memorized like some of my friends do so I could be ill-informed respectfully yours a fellow old schooler...



[ This Message was edited by: kalcario on 2002-12-22 18:02 ]


curt


Dec 23, 2002, 3:53 AM
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kalcario,

I am not sure how you would like me to respond here? If you like, you can obviously PM John Gill and ask him about me. Alternately, I posted this response in the thread about "who would you most like to climb with?"

"Who would I like most to climb with for a day? I have been very fortunate during my climbing carreer--to have already done it.

John Gill
John Stannard
Steve Wunsch
Hidetaka Suzuki
John Bacher
John Sherman
Chris Jones
Mike Freeman
Kevin and Barbara Bein
Rich Goldstone
Dave Twinam
Todd Skinner
Mark Jacobs
Kerwin Klein
Bob Williams
Vaino Kodas
Chris Raypole
Corey Chatwin
Brent Bingham
Russ Clune
Russ Raffa
Rich and Terri Gottlieb

Most of these were/are regular climbing partners of mine rather than just "for a day" partners. I apologise in advance to any of my climbing friends that I have pissed off by not including them."

Curt

If you know any of these people, you can also ask them.

I will admit that I have stayed about as far "under the radar" as anyone during my climbing carreer. Chasing numbers and spraying has never been my thing. I have never sent any route information into any climbing publications, in spite of doing at least a few decent first ascents.

I have only written submissions to "Stone Crusade" when asked by John Sherman to do so, to "Master of Rock" when asked to do so by John Gill and to "A History of Free Climbing in America, Wizards of Rock" when asked to do so by Pat Ament.

By the way, from your user page I could deduce very little about you. However, as an update to my user page, I am happy to report that I am now again bouldering just about as hard as I ever did.

So, if you would like to go out sometime and boulder, I'm game.

Curt


jds100


Dec 24, 2002, 7:19 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the US - Mountain States forum by jds100[/small]


climberchic


Dec 24, 2002, 7:38 PM
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Curt, that was so sweet and just about the coolest retort I've ever heard.

You rock

I'll be laid up due to surgery starting on Friday, so I'll be happy to answer this thread with any beta I can offer after that time, but this is all I can manage with the busy holidays right now.

Happy Holidays!

~Erica

[ This Message was edited by: climberchic on 2002-12-24 11:38 ]


crackwhore


Dec 24, 2002, 7:54 PM
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Jack's canyon is THAT BAD!!! especially when compared to the world class cragging available at Paradise Forks, Granite Mtn., Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, Mt. Lemmon, even Queen Creek and the Mcdowell mtns are way better than Jacks.
don't waste your time there.


climberben


Dec 26, 2002, 11:28 PM
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You have to look at Jacks for what it is an outdoor climbing gym. So go there dont worry about numbers, climb hard, and most importantly have fun. Now that I said that you can flame me about ethics etc. I dont agree with what happened there but I will not stop climbing there.


fieldmouse


Dec 26, 2002, 11:35 PM
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kalcario, maybe if you spent as much time trying to memorize stone crusade as you did bouldering, youd realize that curt shannon is a living legend and that people have been climbing v9 or v10 since the 70's. dork.


fieldmouse


Dec 26, 2002, 11:38 PM
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ps-jack's canyon is a travesty that should be filled with dirt, excavated and then filled with dirt again.


rocknpowda


Dec 26, 2002, 11:45 PM
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DEALS

DEALS

DEALS

St. George-Dixieland of Utah. Tons of climbing on lots of different kinds of rock and no crowds. Trad and Sport of all grades Plus, with this special internet offer, you get the Virgin River Gorge 20 minutes away and if you plan now we'll throw in Red Rocks Nevada only an hour away. For those in your group who just can't go that long with out the snow, there is skiing at Brianhead only an hour away as well.


stick233


Dec 26, 2002, 11:57 PM
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so i thought the topic was about climbing in arizona, not kalcarios personal attack on curt. people shooting off on rediculous tangents on a specific thread is why this site is going down the crapper. let's stay true to the topic please.

that said... queen creek will probably offer the most predictable weather. it's an hour outside phoenix, and los hermanos is a great beer and enchilada place in superior. the areas i'm familiar with are mostly sport and really pumpy (pond area). lemmon has awesome granite and the lower elevations shouldn't be minnesota cold!


chrisnovak


Dec 27, 2002, 12:02 AM
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Hi - I agree: Jack's wasn't THAT bad...but it's not worth driving 2,000 miles for.

I would suggest going the extra 'mile' and try Cochise Stronghold (East of Tucson) - GREAT stuff. And if you hate it, it's not too far to Hueco.

Have fun,
Chris

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