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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 3:41 AM
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Oi pessoas,
It's been 4 years since I last rock climbed. Graduate school had made its way and now I have some time (when I'm not training Capoeira---my other love) to start climbing again.
Physically, I'm in much better shape than I was when I started. (Gotta thank 3 years of training Capoeira). Lost weight, and even gained muscle. Endurance and stamina have increased.
"So what's the issue?" you ask.
I'm experiencing anxiety for a few reasons. I know how difficult it is to find partners that are at the same climbing level. Also, the fear of falling.
Have any of you experienced this? Any ideas on how I can gain composure and once again join the vertical world?
Valeu!
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 3:54 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Oi pessoas, It's been 4 years since I last rock climbed. Graduate school had made its way and now I have some time (when I'm not training Capoeira---my other love) to start climbing again.
Had to look it up. Glad I did.
Capoeira video
Jay
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 3:59 AM
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Haha! Glad you liked it! Btw, this is a clip from my group. Kick-ass.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuWbl3oK2mU
What?? No suggestions? Aww man :-)
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 4:27 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Haha! Glad you liked it! Btw, this is a clip from my group. Kick-ass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuWbl3oK2mU
I had a martial arts teacher once who was dissatisfied with the violence inherent in martial arts. He was striving to develop a martial art that was more cooperative between partners and included elements of dance. I think if he had heard of Capoeira he'd have just dropped what he was doing and gone and studied it.
How much of the movement in your video is choreographed vs ad libbed? My impression is that it is mostly ad libbed, and that the participants adjust to each other's level of skill. The woman who cuts in seems less skilled than either the guy she replaced or the guy who stayed in, and the guy who stayed in seems to scale back the aggressiveness of his movements in response to that.
In reply to: What?? No suggestions? Aww man :-)
First of all, it isn't necessary in climbing to find partners who climb at your level. In fact, you'll progress faster by climbing with partners who are better than you, without being way out of your league. The usual advice nowadays is to join a good climbing gym. Most gyms are divided into sections for bouldering and roped climbing. You don't need a partner to boulder, but you'll probably be able to find a partner for roped climbing by bouldering, since many climbers in the gym do both.
You can do all your roped climbing at first on toprope, so that fear of falling should by a minor issue, if any issue at all. Once you've regained some skill and sport-specific strength, you can progress to leading when you feel you are ready. A good book about handling the psychological aspects of rock climbing is The Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Ilgner, whose approach you might find particularly appealing, given your background in what I'll call, for lack of a better term, a non-violent martial art.
Jay
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 4:40 AM
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Primero:
NONE of the movement in the clip I sent is choreographed. When two people play (as you saw), everything is done on instinct. We train by learning movements to evade kicks as well as being able to execute offensive/defensive/transitional moves. As far as violence is concerned, YES there are groups that are a bit more rough than others. However, under ABADA-Capoeira (the group I'm in) instills proper technique so that injury is avoided as much as possible. Extreme aggression comes from lack of experience and fragile ego. I see this in a lot of "newer" capoeiristas. It takes a while for them to settle into their own style of playing. As one gains more experience, he/she begins to understand the martial art on a deeper level (spritiually, mentally, and physically).
Forgot to add: The girl you saw is playing an Instructor. She replaced a guy from a different group (he was visiting). In Capoeira, anyone can play each other, regardless of cord rank. As it goes with almost every sport----the more experienced people you play with, the better you become ;-)
Segundo:
Thanks for your advice! When I started out, i experienced that partnership was a lot harder to find than I thought----even on a gym level. I don't know, but I guess the people (i.e. men) were looking for a date, and were crushed to find that I had other intentions. Would it be easier to show up and boulder a bit to see who I can interact with?
Muito obrigada pra suas palavras :-)
(This post was edited by marinaaxid25 on Mar 28, 2011, 4:45 AM)
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 5:02 AM
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Games can get pretty fierce. This is a clip from a group in Spain.
Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8J8s7chevTw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 5:22 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Games can get pretty fierce. This is a clip from a group in Spain. Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8J8s7chevTw&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
I wish my old martial arts instructor had known about this. I think that this is pretty close to where he was trying to go. If I were 20 years younger I'd look into this myself.
Jay
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 5:26 AM
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Capoeira (and climbing!!) is for all people of all ages.
You'd be surprised how capable your body is.
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 5:40 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Capoeira (and climbing!!) is for all people of all ages.
Just because I can climb 5.12 doesn't mean I can do that.
Jay
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 5:47 AM
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Onde você ouviu isso??
(Transl: where did you hear that?)
I wish I could climb a 5.12. :(
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 6:00 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Onde você ouviu isso?? (Transl: where did you hear that?)
I'd have to take, like, remedial Capoeira for middle-aged athletes with multiple chronic injuries. Do they have that?
In reply to: I wish I could climb a 5.12. :(
Well, you will be able to. It's a lot easier than you're doing.
Jay
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marinaaxid25
Mar 28, 2011, 6:10 AM
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I found that climbing outside was far stiffer than clmbing indoors. But people say that clmbing indoors is harder. True or false?
Btw, any Capoeira group that you find near you usually have classes for beginners. if you decide to try it out--Boa sorte com isso! :-)
(This post was edited by marinaaxid25 on Mar 28, 2011, 6:12 AM)
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jt512
Mar 28, 2011, 6:32 AM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: I found that climbing outside was far stiffer than clmbing indoors. But people say that clmbing indoors is harder. True or false?
I don't think that either indoor or outdoor climbing is inherently harder. Whichever you practice more, indoors or outdoors, you'll end up better at. For example, I climb routes more outdoors than indoors, but I boulder indoors more than outdoors. So, it's not surprising that I've climbed 5.13a outdoors, but only 5.12a indoors; whereas I've bouldered V6 indoors, but only V3 outdoors.
Jay
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Mar 28, 2011, 12:03 PM
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jt512 wrote: marinaaxid25 wrote: Onde você ouviu isso?? (Transl: where did you hear that?) I'd have to take, like, remedial Capoeira for middle-aged athletes with multiple chronic injuries. Do they have that?
Tai Chi for you old man.
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epoch
Moderator
Mar 28, 2011, 3:08 PM
Post #15 of 18
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jt512 wrote: marinaaxid25 wrote: I found that climbing outside was far stiffer than clmbing indoors. But people say that clmbing indoors is harder. True or false? I don't think that either indoor or outdoor climbing is inherently harder. Whichever you practice more, indoors or outdoors, you'll end up better at. For example, I climb routes more outdoors than indoors, but I boulder indoors more than outdoors. So, it's not surprising that I've climbed 5.13a outdoors, but only 5.12a indoors; whereas I've bouldered V6 indoors, but only V3 outdoors. Jay
Reliving your past glories one internet post at a time?
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ENARE
Mar 28, 2011, 5:28 PM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Oi pessoas, It's been 4 years since I last rock climbed. Graduate school had made its way and now I have some time (when I'm not training Capoeira---my other love) to start climbing again. Physically, I'm in much better shape than I was when I started. (Gotta thank 3 years of training Capoeira). Lost weight, and even gained muscle. Endurance and stamina have increased. "So what's the issue?" you ask. I'm experiencing anxiety for a few reasons. I know how difficult it is to find partners that are at the same climbing level. Also, the fear of falling. Have any of you experienced this? Any ideas on how I can gain composure and once again join the vertical world? Valeu!
I needed climbing partners and was in a similar boat to you a few months ago. I checked online at Meetup.com; If you are still in New York, you can use the following link to check out the groups in your area. I went to one of the climbing meetups in my hometown and although there were a variety of climbers, I ended up climbing with a couple of guys who were a bit better than the group and climbed at my level and they have become my go to climbing partners.
http://rockclimbing.meetup.com/cities/us/ny/new_york/
Secondly, check out the climbing partners forum on this site. Post something on the wall in the appropriate region and also do a search by your location and some of the cities that are around you. I also met a climbing partner through this as well:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...orum.cgi?category=3;
Good luck, I just decided to get back into climbing after a 5 year hiatus and have been loving every minute of it.
Have a good one!
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marinaaxid25
Mar 31, 2011, 10:45 PM
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Hi ENARE,
I remembered this meetup group. I had signed up a few years back. However, I got "kicked out" because I hadn't been able to participate much in the group's activities. LAME!
But I checked out the other references.
Thanks!
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ENARE
Mar 31, 2011, 10:55 PM
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marinaaxid25 wrote: Hi ENARE, I remembered this meetup group. I had signed up a few years back. However, I got "kicked out" because I hadn't been able to participate much in the group's activities. LAME! But I checked out the other references. Thanks!
Thats lame man! I am really only using mine to meet climbers in the area. I feel like my friends are really never that into it as much as I am and it takes so much effort to get them organized to go.
In reply to: I got "kicked out"
also strange because it is not like you are dead space. I wonder if there are more than one groups in the area.
Good luck man! I have loved getting back into climbing lately and it is fun to be involved again.
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