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ecocliffchick
Jun 20, 2003, 2:59 AM
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Went climbing without the bf yesterday, so I was forced to lead. It was really scary at first, but felt very satisfying to know I could go out there and lead them myself. It's just hard to make myself do it when I've got a ropegun by my side.
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angelaa
Jun 20, 2003, 4:02 PM
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I trad lead, but I notice that around certain other girl climbers I tend to NOT lead.
One of the girls I notice this around is my best gf's & she TAUGHT me many moons ago.
Only 2 yrs ago she took a really nasty lead fall and . . . she just isn't into it like she used to be.
I really like to lead, but when I am around her now I feel bad b/c I am advancing and she is just starting to get 'the feeling' back!
We do tend to do a few 'Team Estrogen' climbs and leave the guys to their own accord at least once during a trip. . . just recently I have gotten her to swing leads with me again . . and I love it! There is nothing like and all girls climbing team. . .
luckily I climb with my husband a lot and he really encourages me to lead. We are going to the black hills over July 4th and I have already told him I am going to lead, lead, lead . . .and he will hold me to my word!!!
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dirtineye
Jun 28, 2003, 6:08 AM
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This thread is way more important than hair removal and a lot of other stuff you girls talk about in here, so I BUMPED it, yeah.
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dirtineye
Jun 28, 2003, 9:59 PM
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Um, well I did it anyway. Someone died and made me king don't you know? :P
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jaylaka
Jun 30, 2003, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: This thread is way more important than hair removal and a lot of other stuff you girls talk about in here, so I BUMPED it, yeah.
besides, there's a lot of men on the hair removal threads too.
we can lead and we can bump too. thanks for your help, wanna second us? :wink:
jen
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dirtineye
Jun 30, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Yeah, I'll second.
You gonna do FAs or repeats? What grades? When and where? If we are not too far apart, lets do it.
Oh yeah, are you by any chance a Dirt Barbie?
Gotta get those ladies leading!
Hey I looked at your profile, it wasn't you but I met two nice Dirt Barbie types from Wisconson at Twall a few months ago! Do they put something in the water there or what? One of them had made a lot of her climbing accessories, sewn her own california roll, etc. They were just two nice girls out trad climbing in tennessee, a long way from the cold winter LOL!
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fern
Jul 13, 2003, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: Moey is right, it's ALL ABOUT trusting your belayer...
for me leading stuff is ALL ABOUT trusting myself. When I am feeling confident in my abilities leading is no big deal. I went through a phase a while ago of being very unconfident and whiny about leading things that should have been easy, cragging stopped being very fun because I was disappointed in myself. The solution that fell in my lap was to do some long alpine routes. Being forced to run it out over very easy ground I found myself really getting into the movement and flow of the climbing.
I like leading, I can't grok why anyone wouldn't want to do it.
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missedyno
Sep 23, 2003, 12:51 PM
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wanted to update this thread - it's always a good discussion. i started trad leading regularly this season and I have to say I found my "thing". i'm much more comfortable on the sharp end now. horray!
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macherry
Sep 23, 2003, 3:26 PM
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I just started sport climbing this summer. I didn't think i would be ready to lead yet, but my climbing partner pretty much pushed me into my first lead. He knew i could do it and i did it no problems. He's very encouraging and we climb well together. I think it depends on your partner. Mine is a good belayer too, which inspires confidence. Since we just have a "climbing relationship", there's no other baggage that comes along on the climbs. I'm expected to pull my weight (so to speak), just like "one of the guys". I'm at least 10 yrs. older than the guys i climb with. I know i couldn't climb with my spouse without one of us killing each other.
I also practice on the leads i do confidently and that helps me lead other routes.
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cruzit
Sep 23, 2003, 9:00 PM
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Just an informational thing...If you are just beginning to trad or sport lead or if you are an experienced leader who wants to improve her skills, pick up Arno's book "The Rock Warrior's Way." I had the opportunity to meet Arno while staying with Frank and Lorna at Devil's Tower this season. He's a really interesting guy and the book...I just can't say enough about the great information available in it. The book mainly deals with the mental aspects of climbing.
I know it sounds like I'm trying to sell the thing, I'm not. I was so impressed with the information and by the application prospects not just in climbing, but in all different facets of my life, I think everyone should read it.
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debsanders
Sep 24, 2003, 2:52 AM
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Great revival of a thread!
I'm getting into lead sport climbing. My hardest yet was a 5.9+ at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas in June. We are going back in a couple of weeks. There are several 5.10? that I top roped with no problem, so they are on my tick list.
My son is so great, he can lead up to 5.11b at this point in time. When I'm with him I ask his opinion on what he thinks I can lead.
So far I haven't fallen, but had a close one a couple weeks back. I yelled to my son to be ready for a fall. I threw for my next hold and stuck the move. I think the fear of falling pushed me to go for it. I wonder if I'd been on top rope what I'd done. Would I have given up.
That reminds me I have done one 5.10a, at Paradise on the Brazos in Tx. It is a route my boy bolted. I finally lead it even though I'd never finished it on top rope. I've asked other climbers to verify the rating. My son is contemplating the rating; thinking it's easier.
Back to falling. What is it like to fall? How often do people get hurt by crashing into the wall? My fear is slapping on the rock and breaking an ankle, or arm.
Time to go to bed and dream about leading, without falling.
deb
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unabonger
Sep 24, 2003, 11:54 AM
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debsanders:
Everyone but a few steely freaks is afraid to fall.
It's not too bad once you've done it a few times. To fall safely, you should practice some--your belayer needs practice catching lead falls also. Start by letting go when the bolt is at your head. Not quite a lead fall but you do drop some...then go six inches higher and do it again. Soon you and your belayer will be in synch and it won't be intimidating.
The Big Air UnaBonger
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enigma
Sep 30, 2003, 7:55 AM
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In reply to: debsanders: Everyone but a few steely freaks is afraid to fall. It's not too bad once you've done it a few times. To fall safely, you should practice some--your belayer needs practice catching lead falls also. Start by letting go when the bolt is at your head. Not quite a lead fall but you do drop some...then go six inches higher and do it again. Soon you and your belayer will be in synch and it won't be intimidating. The Big Air UnaBonger
Does that really work? I feel the same way , I do easy stuff because I want it to be impossible to fall. :idea:
Actually when I was in Clarks Canyon I did lead a 5.9 sport climb but I was nervous , had two spotters and took some breaks. :roll:
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bishopclimber
Sep 30, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Randee, you sent that route in fine fashion
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macherry
Oct 3, 2003, 3:32 PM
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Took my first lead fall a couple of days ago and it wasn't as bad as i thought it would be! It was a short fall. I was at the top bolt trying to mantle to the anchors. I felt my fingers slip and yelled "coming off". I was scared, but felt a bit giddy at the same time. The guys below chuckled and yelled back "good first lead fall!" It was a positive experience. I was shaky, but it didn't scare me off leading.The guys i climb with are excellent belayers and that certainly helps. Good fun!
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missedyno
Oct 3, 2003, 4:09 PM
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i feel guilty just reading this thread....
i NEED to take lead falls! i've been pushing myself on the grades this season for leading... started looking for sport 6's... then went through 7's 8's... the occasional 9 and now i've broken into the world of 10a's
my first 10a sport lead was at torrent falls, rrg last weekend. i was so scared! thankfully the other climbers at the crag were mega supportive and i got up the climb without any major issues.
my headspace has been improving... when i think i'm going to fall i used to just freeze and sit, but now i try to get just "one more move" out of myself. i should have taken some practice falls during that road trip but i managed to avoid it. i'll try practicing in the gym one day. promise.
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unabonger
Oct 3, 2003, 4:10 PM
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In reply to: Does that really work? I feel the same way , I do easy stuff because I want it to be impossible to fall. :idea: Actually when I was in Clarks Canyon I did lead a 5.9 sport climb but I was nervous , had two spotters and took some breaks. :roll:
Yes. It works. I've taught sport lead climbing at the local gym, and this is the exact technique we use. Let go right at the bolt at first. Then go successively higher. Best done on a slightly overhanging wall, high on the climb. Both you and your belayer need to understand what its like--its going to happen sooner or later, and you'll be better prepared if you have experience. Like any move in climbing, it's easier the more you've done it...
The WhipperBonger
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climbinggirl33
Oct 7, 2003, 1:07 AM
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I just lead my second 10a this weekend. Yee ha! In training for Potrero Chico.
I moved to Seattle - and have mostly been climbing with those who have less experience than me. So if I want to climb it, I have to lead it.
That's incentive!
B
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tahquitztwo
Oct 7, 2003, 8:26 AM
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This is a kewel thread :D I'm glad to see I'm not the only person who has these kinds of thoughts.
I've been climbing for several years and kind of off and on lead...the past two years I've been pushing to get in better condition and try leading more. Gotta do it before I get too old :D !
I appreciate the suggestions for practicing falling (I've never taken a fall on lead....I just don't want to although somewhere in the back of my mind I know it will happen someday... :shock: )
Funny thing is I've gone to all the trouble to learn trad and still do it when I feel comfortable on the climb but I do like sport climbing, especially slab! I guess it's cause my style climbing lends itself well to slab.
I've always considered myself lucky that partners I've climbed with have always been encouraging and I trust all of them implicitly when I'm leading to give me a good belay.
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missedyno
Oct 7, 2003, 12:30 PM
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i've been taking practice falls at the gym the last few times i went.
i have to admit - i took one fall, it was great, soft, perfect, so my next fall my partner decided to let out a bit more slack. scared me! i swore, got down and stopped climbing for about an hour.
he and i talked about how i'd like to be caught, and i explained that i like soft catches but not too too far. i got on the roof and when i bailed off there, the catch was perfect.
it has as much to do with you getting used to falling as it does your partner getting used to catching you.
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crazygirl
Oct 7, 2003, 4:56 PM
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This is how i deal with the fear of falling - I block it out and don't think about it. I tell myself that there is no way i'll fall off this route.
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jt512
Oct 7, 2003, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: This is how i deal with the fear of falling - I block it out and don't think about it. I tell myself that there is no way i'll fall off this route.
What if the route turns out to be truly dangerous?
-Jay
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crazygirl
Oct 7, 2003, 6:49 PM
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i'm less likely to get on a route if i'm thinking about falling. Once i'm on it, i don't think about it. If I fall, it happens fast, there is really no time to freak. But then again, I climb mostly trad, and I've only taken a fall a few times. And i'd hate to think what would happen if fell while on a runout... Can practice really prepare you for something like this?
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jt512
Oct 7, 2003, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: i'm less likely to get on a route if i'm thinking about falling. Once i'm on it, i don't think about it. If I fall, it happens fast, there is really no time to freak. But then again, I climb mostly trad, and I've only taken a fall a few times. And i'd hate to think what would happen if fell while on a runout... Can practice really prepare you for something like this?
Complex question. You might want to get Arno Ilgner's new book The Rock Warrior's Way. Once you've committed to a runout, your best chance of getting through it safely is to concentrate on the moves. Thinking about falling is pointless once you've committed. However, heading into the runout blindly, without first considering the risk and whether you are up to it, is foolish. It is important to assess the risk before committing to it. Deciding to back off rather than take on the runout section is sometimes the better choice.
-Jay
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