|
gblauer
Moderator
Feb 16, 2009, 3:52 AM
Post #1 of 24
(10343 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
We are off to EPC for 10 days of climbing. Last year my goal was to climb Time Wave Zero (23 pitches of sport climbing fun) which we did in 13 hours door to door. It was one hell of a day!
This year I would like to try and push my grade a bit. I have been doing endurance and strength training since September, mixing in some projecting over the last few months. I am feeling confident and strong...Will report in on my return.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Mar 5, 2009, 12:09 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Feb 16, 2009, 2:18 PM
Post #2 of 24
(10318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
gblauer wrote: We are off to EPC for 10 days of climbing. Last year my goal was to climb Time Wave Zero (23 pitches of sport climbing fun) which we did in 13 hours door to door. It was one hell of a day! This year I would like to try and push my grade a bit. I have been doing endurance and strength training since September, mixing in some projecting over the last few months. I am feeling confident and strong...Will report in on my return.
Have fun Gail! I hope that I'll get down to Potrero one of these winters.
|
|
|
|
|
tigerlilly
Feb 16, 2009, 2:27 PM
Post #3 of 24
(10317 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 564
|
Take lots of pictures!
Kathy
|
|
|
|
|
clee03m
Feb 17, 2009, 4:58 PM
Post #4 of 24
(10283 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785
|
Have a great trip! And keep us posted when you get back about how you did.
BTW, your post from the past about coming out of the winter stronger keeps me going at the gym.
|
|
|
|
|
smallclimber
Feb 19, 2009, 3:53 AM
Post #5 of 24
(10250 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2003
Posts: 301
|
We are going first week in April. It will be our first time there, we don't speak any Spanish and usually go to very "familiar" destinations, stay in nice hotels etc, so this will be a real adventure. Please do let everyone know how your trip went and any tips you have.
What guidebook is best?
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Feb 19, 2009, 4:05 AM
Post #6 of 24
(10246 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
We don't speak any Spanish and we have been going to EPC for years. While it would be wonderful to speak the language, it's not necessary in order to have a good time climbing.
I use all three guide books; Ed has two (1 desk top published and 1 regular) and Dane has a book. I use the desktop published book at the cliff and I use the others for research and rate comparisons. If Dane puts up the climb, I trust his rating. Similarly with Ed.
EPC is wonderful, but the accomodations ect. are hardly 5 star. That said, you will be there for climbing and the climbing is surely 5 star.
Try and get out to the hot springs...it's really quite nice.
|
|
|
|
|
tedman
Feb 19, 2009, 5:57 AM
Post #7 of 24
(10244 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 237
|
accomodations are pretty cush for 3-5$/day. Toilets, hot showers, gas stoves and fridge space? Oh yeah and now a pool? how is the pool at posada? they were JUST finishing it when I left in december...
have fun! Dunno what grade you are pushing for, but if it happens to be breaking into the 11s, No excuses on outrage and the first pitch of two pumped chump on Mota are freaking stellar!
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Mar 4, 2009, 7:13 PM
Post #8 of 24
(10143 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
We are back from potrero. Thanks to Nicole for this photo..
Had a great trip, Reflections will be posted shortly
|
|
|
|
|
clausti
Mar 4, 2009, 8:56 PM
Post #9 of 24
(10126 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2004
Posts: 5690
|
so. jealous.
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Mar 5, 2009, 12:08 AM
Post #10 of 24
(10095 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Potrero Reflections:
Ok I am home from my annual climbing trip to EPC, pretty exhausted, reflecting on the trip. Overall, we had a wonderful time.
The pluses of the trip:
1) The company was fine, no prima donnas, everyone was cordial and pleasant. Doug has a nice sense of humor; Nicole was her usual unaffected, easy self. Patrick was happy making sure that Bett was having fun and safe. My wonderful husband Mitch was his usual, wonderfully sweet, amazing self. Mitch and I climbed with Doug and Nicole a couple of days and with Patrick and Bett on some of the other days. It was great to be able to set up some parallel routes and shoot some actual climbing photos.
2) My climbing (technically) was the best it has ever been outdoors. I made the transition to a “foot first” climber and spent much of my time looking for feet, standing up and then finding my hands. It was an amazing transformation for me. I used to be so nervous that I would not find hands. On this trip, I didn’t really care if there were hands. If my feet were in a good position, I always felt stable. If there were marginal hands, I was able to slightly adjust my feet to find better hands. Many times, I would look up and find huge jugs that I didn’t even use! I used my hands for balance more than anything. My shoulders, elbows and fingers are in so much better shape after 5600 feet of climbing than 2 hours of climbing in the gym. I was consistently leading 10’s very comfortably.
3) I took some practice falls and I was quite comfortable doing it.
4) I ate very well. I had a big breakfast (usually eggs and fruit) and nothing during the day. Nothing like anxiety to create anorexia! I had a good dinner every night, usually ½ of what was on my plate. I rarely snacked, nor did I dig into my nut mix etc. I was really not hungry on this trip.
5) The house was reasonable clean and Milton was very accommodating. By reasonably clean I mean Milton took out the trash every day etc. There is still mold and mildew in the grout etc. Homero’s is very quiet. Posada gets the lion’s share of the climbers these days. Luis’ camp ground and rooms are full and they must serve dinner to ½ the visiting climbers. The place looks great and Luis continues to impress. There seems to be some really bad blood between Homero and Tami. Not sure what precipitated it all, but, I don’t think it’s going to be resolved. Tami is closing her café and setting up a major campground with a casita right behind Homero’s. She is going to offer internet, camping, casitas and she is going to compete head to head with Homero. I would love to work with Homero to reinvigorate his operation. Alas, it will remain a dream for now, kids to get through college, mortgages to pay and retirement to fund.
The negatives of the trip:
1) I did not push myself. I had a goal to lead some 11’s and I did not. I am disappointed in myself and feel like I could have done a much better job pushing myself on to harder climbs. (I need to push myself because no one pushes me.) I think that I should have spent the first day doing our usual warm up climb (Las Chimeulas) and then I should have done some down climbing, up climbing and falling. I should have taken practice falls every day. I should have done some drills every day. On the very last day, I down climbed the first pitch of Cactus Pile. It was a great exercise and it’s something I should have done on the first day. It’s a great way to get used to the rock (all over again) and force yourself to focus on something other than straight climbing.
2) Not enough rest days. I am not sure why, but, this trip EXHAUSTED me. We did at least 7 pitches every day which isn’t very many. Yet, I was thoroughly spent at the end of every day. I think it may have been because I was consistently on the 10’s whereas in the past I was doing 10’s as a “push” grade. I think I will need to make the trip 2 weeks next year so that we can spend more rest days and get in some drill days. I will have to figure that out.
3) Bad dog. There was a very bad dog that I personally watched bite a climber. The dog snuck up behind the climber, wagging his tail and then rushed in for the bite! Took the climber completely by surprise. This dog bit 4 people in 4 days. It’s a white dog with brown features on his head/face. The dog lives in a house on the left side of the road, near the gates. It has a dark green wall and gates. Make sure you give the dog wide berth and that you carry a good sized rock. The dog seems to recognize that humans holding rocks are not a good thing.
Overall, I think the trip was a transformational success for me. I am thrilled that I have finally moved into a more technical type of climbing and that I feel very comfortable doing it. It’s funny, I had a harder time (I didn’t fall or take) on some of my repeat climbs (things I had sent last year) because I was so focused on the feet. Sometimes you just have to get a hand somewhere and crank! I think I was just trying to find the perfect feet every time.
Goals for the upcoming outdoor season:
1) Get to Birdsboro during the week. Practice falling, doing drills and pushing my limit on climbs with minimal fall consequences. Lead Groovin (12a...soft).
2) Spend the first several days of the Gunks season aiding on my gear so that I can re-build my confidence in the gear. Do lots of drills and get used to gear climbing.
3) Push myself on to harder climbs at the Gunks. Learn to place gear on the go and rest efficiently before moving to the next placement.
Goals for next year’s EPC trip
1) Climb the 10’s regularly and do an 11 everyday. Even if I don’t make it up the 11, get on something hard and work it. If necessary, invite a “push” partner so that I have someone who is willing to push me into the harder grades.
2) Climb Black Cat Bone
Recommended Moderate EPC Climbs :
1) (Always and forever): Las Chimeulas, a great way to get used to the rock and back on multi pitch. At an 8,9,8 rating, it’s the perfect “first” climb.
2) Mr. Hanky: A super 5.8 with some good exposure on the Wonder Wall. This wall is in the pool complex and will be in the shade the entire day. There are some intermediate anchors if you get skeeved or you can run it to the top. It’s juggy, happy and fun.
3) Spin Doctor: 5.8 in the Virgin Canyon. Shares same anchors with Penitente and Catwalk (two 10b’s). This is a really fun 8 with a cool (make me look good roof). I think it’s one of the best 8’s in the park.
4) 31 foot smurf: 10a/9+ in the Virgin Canyon. This is a single pitch “one move wonder” with a nice blocky face with jugs. Easy climbing before and after the low, but well protected crux.
5) Monkey Booty: 5.9+ at the Wonder Wall. This is very unlikely looking from the ground (you climb a ramp/flake thing, stand on the very tippy top point to get the first draw in place and then start cranking) but it’s all there and it’s a lot of fun. This is a new climb that just went in. If you stay to the left of the cactus halfway up the wall it’s a 9, if you go left it’s more 10ish . Mitch thought the 10 way was pretty easy.
6) Jungle Mountaineering: this climb has been retro bolted and is no longer a run out 10a R. It’s nicely bolted and the 4th (and final) pitch is amazing. I suggest that you do the last pitch a couple of times take the “high road” and the “low road” options through the crux moves. I would say that this climb feels more like a 10d than a 10a! A 5.8 leader could lead P3, it’s a nine, but, it’s really juggy and fun. The only thing...there used to be only 3 bolts on the entire pitch (100 feet) making it an “R”. Now there are 7. It felt marginally run out between the bolts, but the climbing was really pretty light.
7) Satori: Although the approach is an “approach from hell “ (up the miners trail, 3rd class scramble up a long ridge, up 50 feet of scree, take a left at the cairn [do not go up the fixed line] and follow the trail to the base of the climb.) This 7 pitch 10c was the highlight of our trip. It was in the shade the entire time, the warm breezes wafted gently and the climbing was stellar. Linking pitches is easy and when you finally get to the ridge, you are overlooking the virgin canyon. It’s worth the hike, really! The hike out was much easier.
8) Flamingo Wall: It’s a hardcore, sustained 11c. The first two pitches are 8’s and really really fun. Nice easy climbing, with an interesting corner (not hard, just thoughtful) get you to the base of a steep headwall. The first half of the 3rd pitch is reasonable and then the business begins. I found it difficult to read the route (I know, it’s bolted) and one mistake could get you really off track. It’s thin, steep and sustained. Nothing easy, no big rests and technical moves all the way to the top. Better to lower the leader and for you to TR from the top of the 2nd. Otherwise the leader would be in a hanging belay for a long time. You need a 70M for this climb.
9) Above the Flamingo climb, through the cave there are three more climbs; 10a, 10c/d, 8. I forget the names, but, they were all really fun climbs and out the fray. The 10’s were soft and the 8 was great. The 8 had a spicy finish at the anchors, so let someone else hang the draws if you are pushing your limits on an 8.
10) Resurrection: 10b in the Virgin Canyon. This was our warm up on Day 7. Pretty cool to “warm up” on a 10. It goes down really easy and I think a 5.9 leader could easily lead this after TRing it once or twice you might feel very comfortable leading it. Lots of great clipping stances and good rests all the way up.
11) Death of a Tradman: 10a on the Mota wall. This climb was very similar to resurrection in that it had lots of rests and great clipping stances. This is another climb that you might want to TR once or twice and then lead.
12) Yankee Clipper: This is a long multi pitch climb with a lot of moderate climbing. I think it’s better than Space Boyz.
13) Snot Girlz: Great 7 pitch climb, the first two pitches are the hardest and then it backs down to the 9’s the rest of the way. It’s a great climb and it has a stellar pitch…seems improbable, but the moves are all there.
14) Cactus Pile: 3 (actually 4, no one does the 4th) pitches on the Mota wall. 8, 10b. 9. Any 5.8 leader should feel very comfortable on P1, the 8 is an “easy peazy” lead with Jugs all the way to the anchors. The 10b is fun with a one move crux. The 9 is a bit spicy, I wouldn’t lead it unless you were feeling really confident. (This in comparison to the 9’s on Snot Girlz or Yankee Clipper.)
15) Team Hilti: 10d. This is a thin face climb on the Mota wall. It’s sustained and long. Thin move after thin move and you finally get to the anchors, exhausted!
16) Pins and Needles: 10D Another thin face climb on the Mota wall. Equally challenging, equally sustained. Where you think it’s going to be easy it’s hard and visa versa.
|
|
|
|
|
lhwang
Mar 5, 2009, 2:58 PM
Post #11 of 24
(10045 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 582
|
Cool! Sounds like you had a great time. EPC is a good place to push yourself... reasonably bolted, lots of moderates. Sounds like the weather was hot when you were there?
Do you think part of your exhaustion was due to the way you were eating? Most of your glycogen stores are gone within an hour or two of exercise.
I love the food at EPC. Sample recommended menu:
Breakfast: Milton makes these great eggs with oaxaca cheese and a little bit of spice. Eat with tortillas and lots of salsa.
Lunch/snacks: I'm not sure if Edgardo Baca's mom has opened up a kiosk near the crags yet but I would opt for that if available. If not, maybe elotes slathered with lime juice, butter and salt. Snack on empanadas, avocados and tortillas. They also make this bread in Bustamente which is very tasty.
Dinner: So many options. Actually most years that we've been there, we've instituted double dinners... one dinner at 4 PM, a second dinner at 8 PM. My favourites are tamales (can special order them), chicken tacos at Checo's, and whole roasted chicken with potatoes. Can finish off with Mexican hot chocolate or cake (check the bakeries around town, can often buy a whole chocolate cake for under $10).
For moderate climbs (cuz I climb when I go to Potrero, not just eat...), I agree with most of your list (part of me balks to see 31 foot smurf as a 5.10a though...)
Will the Wolf Survive (great exposure, one of the best photo ops), in Los Lobos canyon. Mostly easy, then the crux pitch is easy but exposed.
Mr. Fluffers' Wild Ride. Long single pitch.
Coca Cola (10b). Just pure fun... nice handholds, good moves.
Sad to hear that Homero's is quieting down but I'm not really surprised.
|
|
|
|
|
tavs
Mar 5, 2009, 5:49 PM
Post #12 of 24
(10026 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2002
Posts: 303
|
Does sound like an awesome trip! Probably one of the only sport climbing areas I can see myself contemplating a big trip to hit (other than France, I suppose).
I'm with lhwang though on the eating thing. I was surprised to read that you said you ate well, but didn't eat at all during the day! I can't imagine climbing all day, multiple days in a row on just a breakfast and dinner. I have to think it contributed to your overall fatigue. I got serious about running in the fall (training for half marathons) and after a few weeks of hard training, I was feeling constantly wiped. I started keeping a food journal and tracking how much I was eating (and burning), as well as when and what kinds of food, and realized quickly that my eating was not keeping up with the new influx of activity. You've gotta fuel!!
Fun to read the TR in any case (and also the one on TWZ you posted in the TR forum).
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Apr 1, 2009, 6:54 PM
Post #13 of 24
(9799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
I just came across this post and should offer the following observations:
The reason Homero's campground did not do much business this year (aside from the fact that the number of visitors was way down due to the general economy) was partly the result of many mistakes made over the years, but mostly because Homero made a very bad deal with someone who was supposed to lease the entire property, live in the house and turn the large outbuilding into a warehouse for a wholesale climbing gear business. So...word got out at the start of the season that there would be no camping at Homero's this year. By the time Homero figured out that that person (who shall remain nameless) was just stringing him along the season was well underway and everyone was camping elsewhere.
The "bad blood" between Tami and Homero is not anything serious--we have been friends for 18 years and if push came to shove we would be there for each other.
Tami and I will be managing six properties next year offering camping, private rooms and private houses. We would like to see everyone who caters to the climbers do well and that everyone who comes to climb here has the best time of their lives.
|
|
|
|
|
becgur
Nov 3, 2009, 9:52 PM
Post #14 of 24
(9465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2004
Posts: 11
|
Hi Ed,
I am heading to EPC Thanksgiving Week, are your accommodations up and running yet?
My fiance and I met in Mexico last year and are looking for a place to get married in the Potrero. We will be gathering info on locations on our trip, and of course climbing!
Thanks,
r
|
|
|
|
|
lhwang
Nov 4, 2009, 5:33 AM
Post #15 of 24
(9427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 582
|
Sorry to jump in... we almost had our wedding in Potrero. Be sure that you look at the marriage requirements. You need to do a RPR, CXR and HIV test in Mexico (when I asked if this could be done in Canada and then the results brought down to Mexico, I was told no). I think you also need copies of your birth certificates translated into Spanish. It will probably take a few days for all the paperwork, then you just have to find the registro civil in Hidalgo to perform the ceremony. I'm Canadian and I think there was also something about getting the marriage certificate authenticated before leaving Mexico, then you would have to get it translated into english and notarized in order to have it recognized in Canada.
Dane and Kita Bass got married there. You could probably track either of them down to ask questions about good locations. They got married in the arroyo. We were thinking about la hacienda del muerte.
|
|
|
|
|
becgur
Nov 4, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #16 of 24
(9406 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2004
Posts: 11
|
Thanks so much for jumping in!
We were thinking of having one of our friends come down to officiate. If it is not legally recognized then we will have a small civil ceremony in the states when we get back.
Can you tell me a little about the arroyo and hacienda del muerte (that one sounds scary!). I would love to have the party in the pool complex in the canyon, I wonder if that is possible. Not sure where to have the ceremony, somewhere in the canyon would also be nice.
Also, I am a little concerned about the comfort and accommodations for my elderly relatives. Are there any hotels or guesthouses in Hidalgo? i'm not worried about our friends, they can camp. When we are in EPC at the end of the month we will speak to Dane and Kita about other logistics, catering, band, etc.
Thanks for your help!
|
|
|
|
|
clee03m
Nov 4, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #17 of 24
(9390 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785
|
Getting married in Georgia was a pain (who would have thought!) so my husband and I got legally married at the library a few weeks before our wedding.
Congrats!
|
|
|
|
|
becgur
Nov 4, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #18 of 24
(9387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2004
Posts: 11
|
Thanks clee,
I am not so worried about the legal aspect, more for finding a hotel, music, food, location in Hidalgo.
We can always get married in Vegas later!
|
|
|
|
|
lhwang
Nov 6, 2009, 3:38 PM
Post #19 of 24
(9324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 582
|
You say canyon, I say arroyo...  You can rent the cabin in the arroyo through Homero. http://elpotrerochico.com/_wsn/page4.html
The hacienda del muerte is a ruined church just outside of EPC. http://visualadventures.com/...uerte-pic-of-the-day Last time we were there though they looked like they were rebuilding it so I don't know what it looks like now.
I would talk to Magic Ed and Tami or Homero about accommodations. One night we turned up in EPC and our room wasn't ready yet so Milton put us in a house that was fairly comfortable.
Edgardo Baca's mom was going to do the catering for us. And we were going to rent a mechanical bull. Heh.
Have fun planning your wedding.
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Nov 7, 2009, 3:26 PM
Post #20 of 24
(9299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
Becgur,
I would talk to Milton, Luis or Ed about making arrangements. If you were thinking of the pool area, you would have to do it when the pools are open. I think that is near Easter time. I have been there during that time and there are lots of vendors selling grilled chicken, meat and fruit stands. I think you could easily get someone to prepare food for your weeding guests. You would have to pay admission fees for the pool area, then stake out and area for your party. (I would bring decorations and decorate an area with tables etc). Music will be more problematic because everyone seems to have radios and they blast all different kinds of music. You may have to go with the flow on that one, because if you have dedicated musicians, I doubt you would hear them. There are bakeries in town where you could commission a wedding cake or you could get one in Monterrey.
The church that everyone speaks of is very lovely, but, it's pretty far away on not so great roads. I am not sure it's worth the journey to get there for the ceremony. You might want Milton or Luis to investigate local churches to see if anything feels right to you. You could always talk to Luis about doing the enitre event at La Posada. It's really quite lovely there. He has spent considerable resources landscaping, building a beautiful pool etc. Another option might be the hotel that was built around the hot springs. While it's a 45 minute drive from EPC, the hotel is quite nice and the hot springs are really nice. I looked at most of the rooms at the hotel and they are 4 star. The common areas are very pretty and it might be a good option for having the wedding and accomodating your guests. Here is some information on the hot springs:
http://www.mexicomike.com/...exico/monterrey.html
You can purchase a lot of your supplies at the Walmart in Monterrey, but, if you need special items, then I would bring them from the US.
Personally, I think it would be fairly easy to plan an event at EPC, you just need to tap into the right people for help. Luis, Milton and Ed would be a great place to start.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Nov 7, 2009, 3:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
becgur
Nov 9, 2009, 3:43 PM
Post #21 of 24
(9275 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2004
Posts: 11
|
Thank you ladies!
Will any of you be in Mexico at the end of the month?
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Nov 9, 2009, 4:06 PM
Post #22 of 24
(9272 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
becgur wrote: Thank you ladies! Will any of you be in Mexico at the end of the month?
Alas, no. I had surgery on foot #1 last Wednesday and I have surgery on foot #2 on the 23rd. I will not be in Mexico until March.
|
|
|
|
|
becgur
Nov 9, 2009, 4:24 PM
Post #23 of 24
(9266 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 23, 2004
Posts: 11
|
I hope you have a safe recovery!
|
|
|
|
|
lhwang
Nov 9, 2009, 11:57 PM
Post #24 of 24
(9241 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2005
Posts: 582
|
Was planning on it but am going to Vinales instead.
gblauer, I hope things go smoothly and you're back on the rocks soon!
|
|
|
|
|
|
