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bear
Nov 4, 2003, 5:52 AM
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okay, so here's my problem... i have a heck of a time climbing overhanging routes, and i don't know where my strength issues are.
if the holds are big and burly and i keep moving, count me in. this is generally overhanging that's a problem, the whole thing not bits and pieces. and sadly i mean a relatively slight overhang, let's not even talk about 45 degrees. i'll put out a 5.9 if it's mostly vertical or slightly inclined even with holds. otherwise put me at a 5.7.
i've been climbing about half a year. making the moves isn't a big deal, i just can't hold myself to the wall. what do i need to strengthen? and how can i do it aside from climbing more?
thanks for any suggestions...
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overlord
Nov 4, 2003, 10:13 AM
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try putting your legs high on the wall, turning your hips (if you want to reach with your right hand, turn your right hip towards the wall), hang on your arms, dont try to pull yourself into the wall like it waas a vertical route...
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ecocliffchick
Nov 4, 2003, 2:41 PM
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overlord gave a pretty good description: Here it is again, slightly more fleshed out. When climbing a vertical wall you tend to place all your weight over your feet by standing close to the wall. When the route overhangs, you have a tendency to try to pull yourself in, which wastes valuable strength. Instead, hang from straight arms (hanging off your skeleton) with your butt hanging low and away from the wall. When you go to take a move, employ a twist and lock technique. This is done by turning both your feet in the same direction (inside edge of one foot and outside edge of the other). This should force you to turn one hip into the wall. As you twist in towards the wall, keep your arms straight , just rotate into the arm. You will find that the reach of your opposite arm is now about six inches further, without having employed any tension in your arms. You would then grab the next higher hold using that extra reach. For the nest move, you would switch all your body positions to be facing the opposite direction, such that you are twisting your opposite hip into the wall, and gaining reach with the other hand.
You will find that strength is still required to climb overhangs, but it is more your core strength that will allow you to continuously bring your feet up and twist your frame than burly biceps.
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estherator
Nov 4, 2003, 6:36 PM
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I couldn't have described it better myself ecocliffchick. I'd also add that, where you can, hike your feet up high and swing, straight-armed, in to your next holds-you use more momentum on these moves, saving your strength for the ones you need it on.
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winter
Nov 4, 2003, 7:15 PM
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I also suck at overhanging routes..big time. I find it ultra frustrating so rarely try anymore.
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janet
Nov 5, 2003, 2:31 PM
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I have problems climbing overhanging routes too.
Part of my problem is strength but I think a bigger problem for me is my mind. I get there - right to the point when I need to reach up and over the overhang - and i stop. my mind tells me i can't do it and i end up coming off without even really trying. very frustrating. but i keep forcing myself to try it.
last week at the gym i ended up cruising past (well, that's relative...) the overhang and as soon as my mind realized i had made it to the next hold i froze and ended up coming off for no reason.
I'm not sure how to get my mind past it. I guess I'll just keep trying them until I have the confidence to do it.
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 5, 2003, 7:00 PM
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thanks for the tips
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overlord
Nov 6, 2003, 2:23 PM
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jane, dont be afraid of overhangs. theyre actually the safest thing you can climb, if theres no danger of decking. if you fall you will just swing around on the rope an the wors thing that can happen is you looking stupid while trying to get back onto the route.
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mother_sheep
Nov 6, 2003, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: I have problems climbing overhanging routes too. Part of my problem is strength but I think a bigger problem for me is my mind. I get there - right to the point when I need to reach up and over the overhang - and i stop. my mind tells me i can't do it and i end up coming off without even really trying. very frustrating. but i keep forcing myself to try it. last week at the gym i ended up cruising past (well, that's relative...) the overhang and as soon as my mind realized i had made it to the next hold i froze and ended up coming off for no reason. I'm not sure how to get my mind past it. I guess I'll just keep trying them until I have the confidence to do it.
Bouldering helps too. If your gym has an overhanging bouldering area, this could be a benefit to you for building strength and technique without feeling the intimidation that you feel on a route.
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bear
Nov 6, 2003, 11:19 PM
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thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming... school's kept me from climbing the last week or so, but i'll be sure to try some stuff this weekend.
julie
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bear
Nov 11, 2003, 3:54 PM
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finally i get to the gym, like eight years later... but i was working on the hip-to-the-wall stance and it helped a ton. thanks! :D
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