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sway-reincarnate
Nov 6, 2007, 10:19 PM
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alright here is the background. I did some bouldering and climbing before I joined the Mil, for fun stuff, climbed a solid 5.9 and could pull off 5.10's if pushed. I was not great by any standards, but I could generally keep up with the boys I was climbing with.
Due to the MIL I took a 6 year hiatus from climbing and upon my return, literally within 2 months of picking up climbing again I ruptured half of the ligaments in my left ankle. (Just recovered now) I just recently went climbing with a friend who is one of the naturally gifted climbers and has been my climbing buddy down here since the accident. While at the crag I pulled a 5.7 no problem, 5.8 no problem, 5.9.. eh... peeled off and was tired by the end of the day.
Ok so I know it's going to take time for me to get back into it, but here is the kicker, at the end of the week I am moving to Boulder freaking Colorado. One of the nexus's of the climbing community, and somehow I doubt that there are going to be that many climbers around my level. I am half way tempted to walk into the Spot and hire a personal trainer (how retarded would I feel) but... I know I am already looked at differently at the crag for being a chica, especially one that isn't the token girlfriend along for the ride. I also know that female climbers tend to fall into two categories, pretty good, or just starting and trying.
I guess the only reason I say that is that if I go show up at a crag in Boulder I don't want to be the chick that falls into the latter category, and at the moment I am feeling a little overwhelmed about climbing like a beginner again.
Ok I know this was random, but there is no other female climber in this area that I can tell this to. sigh.... all i can do is train and train and climb more...
~NIC
ps. if there are any femme's in Boulder who wouldn't mind going climbing with me, I would LOVE to meet up sometime.
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petsfed
Nov 7, 2007, 1:16 AM
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sway-reincarnate wrote: One of the nexus's of the climbing community, and somehow I doubt that there are going to be that many climbers around my level.
Clearly you haven't spent much time in the Boulder area. Go to Eldo on any given Saturday and there will be a line of climbers "around my level" waiting to lead Calypso. Likewise on the Dome in Boulder Canyon, and all over the Flatirons.
Easiest way to get climbing partners is just to ask. And chances are you'll get a few PMs at least. Also try http://www.mountainproject.com. Or talking to people at the Spot, or hanging out at Neptunes. Or any number of other options. Its not as scary a scene as you've been led to believe. At least, unless you're a sport climber gunning for a sponsorship. Then its downright Machiavellian.
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sway-reincarnate
Nov 7, 2007, 1:55 AM
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lol thanks man, I guess it's one of those things 'growing up climbing' that you always want to get to the point where you can climb endlessly at Hueco, HP40, Boulder, Joshua, Camp 4 etc.... I guess I wouldn't feel so uhm, overwhelmed if I could confidentaly climb at the level I use to.. :( sigh.. I have to admit that there is some joy in relearning how to climb. hahahaha.
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petsfed
Nov 7, 2007, 5:06 AM
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Well, I learned to climb in the Boulder area, and even if you're not pulling as hard as used to, its a good place.
I'll drop you a line the next time I'm down that way and need a partner though. All of my old friends in Boulder quit climbing.
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gwendolyn
Nov 7, 2007, 6:17 AM
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Boulder is a hotbed for outdoor activities so you can surely find a partner who's at your level. Climb like a new climber and focus on keeping your left ankle healthy. You don't want to do any permanent damage.
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troutboy
Nov 7, 2007, 2:03 PM
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sway-reincarnate wrote: I also know that female climbers tend to fall into two categories, pretty good, or just starting and trying.
I can only imagine the outcry if a guy had uttered this. I'm sure you did not mean it this way, but you might be slighting the many women who can really crank. Or maybe by "pretty good" you meant "really good" and not "average", which is how it reads to me (and I'm just interpreting it incorrectly).
Anyway, to my real point...
sway-reincarnate wrote: I guess the only reason I say that is that if I go show up at a crag in Boulder I don't want to be the chick that falls into the latter category, and at the moment I am feeling a little overwhelmed about climbing like a beginner again. ps. if there are any femme's in Boulder who wouldn't mind going climbing with me, I would LOVE to meet up sometime.
I do not think you will have any problem melding into the Boulder climbing scene. Climbing is everywhere there, indoors and out, with climbers of all abilities.
Although how hard you climb might impress some people, most will be more than willing to climb with you if you are safe, attentive, fun to be around, and can adjust to various conditions and circumstances.
To me, and I believe most other climbers, that is far more important than how hard you can climb. And with all the climbing possibilities in Boulder, I really don't think it will be too long before you are back to former abilities, or even beyond.
Best of luck to ya,
TS
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acacongua
Nov 7, 2007, 2:23 PM
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troutboy wrote: Although how hard you climb might impress some people, most will be more than willing to climb with you if you are safe, attentive, fun to be around, and can adjust to various conditions and circumstances.
I've learned that the secret to finding a partner is not the level you climb, but the level of your attitude. There are lots of women climbing sans men and all levels and a well-liked, confident individual will always be taken care of ... even if a 5.9 is a challenge for you.
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granite_grrl
Nov 7, 2007, 2:59 PM
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sway-reincarnate wrote: I know I am already looked at differently at the crag for being a chica, especially one that isn't the token girlfriend along for the ride. I also know that female climbers tend to fall into two categories, pretty good, or just starting and trying. I guess the only reason I say that is that if I go show up at a crag in Boulder I don't want to be the chick that falls into the latter category, and at the moment I am feeling a little overwhelmed about climbing like a beginner again.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way, but you ahve to let go of the ego. I know first hand that this can be really hard, but if you manage to do that you'll worry a lot less.
You feel that you know more and know you're capable beyond your current climbing abilities. Truth is that no one cares what you climbed back in your hayday, and that no one cares what you climb now. What matters is being a safe fun partner.
Take pleasure in learning and relearning things in your climbing. Let your preivious injuries focus your attention and make you more serious. You will improve faster than you thought you could.
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geogoddess
Nov 7, 2007, 4:54 PM
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I'm glad to read this thread, and I'm taking some of this to heart myself. I am returning to climbing after a long, long hiatus, during which due to changes in work modality, grad school, living overseas, moving, having a baby, etc I just could not keep my climbing skills up to the level that would allow me to climb safely.
Two years ago I was ready to climb again- I was at peak strength/weight and mentally super psyched! But I didn't have a partner, and then out of the f-ing blue, I had an ordeal with breast cancer, and snapped my right ankle in a skiing accident about the same time. I was down for months, really- most of a year. I lost not only alot of strength, but also considerable self esteem (also, one of my favorite body parts, too- but thats another story)
Its a little intimidating to come back. I"m jsut gonna say that, and leave it there. Its not an issue of me vs the rock, but more feeling like my skills are so rusty that I don't feel like I"m a safe belay partner yet, and so neither me nor anyone I climb with can go hard until I feel solid again. I"m willing to put the time in, but its a little humiliating to feel so stupid again, its like I've forgotten everything I knew, and I'm climbing at the kindergarten level again.
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sway-reincarnate
Nov 8, 2007, 1:03 AM
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geogoddess wrote: Its a little intimidating to come back. I"m jsut gonna say that, and leave it there. Its not an issue of me vs the rock, but more feeling like my skills are so rusty that I don't feel like I"m a safe belay partner yet, and so neither me nor anyone I climb with can go hard until I feel solid again. I"m willing to put the time in, but its a little humiliating to feel so stupid again, its like I've forgotten everything I knew, and I'm climbing at the kindergarten level again.
I know the way I posted it might make it seem that all I am worried about is the way i look on the rock, but I think the above poster put my feelings into better words. Sorry guys, I just couldn't get it across right.
it's more that I am afraid that I am going to not be that 'good partner' again. I guess that's all ... here i renewed my subscriptions to climbing mags during my recovery from presaid injury and it seems like the sport I once loved has gone to this new generation of climbers that is all about achieving the 5.14's and v8's and the biggest sponsor. (I would not be surprised by an olympic bid)
I am trying not to take it in so deeply, but it kills me when climbing with my brau who after a year of climbing, flashes his first 5.10c on his first lead. ARGH!!!!!!!!! ahhahaha ok I was actually happy and proud thinking back on it, cause I was the one that taught him all the knots/ropework....
I was up in Boulder recently scouting out some of the places that I had heard of and just looking and deciding what problems I wanted to work on later etc... (if you saw a girl with red hair to her ass that said 'hey' and 'cheers' a lot that was me) That is the source of my 'girls fall into two categories' comment. Every girl I saw climbing very evidently fell into either category. I was inspired to see women setting problems/following routes that were giving their male counter parts a run for their money. Starting my climbing in Spokane, Wa, and then climbing in the middle east, you really do not see women giving men the run for their money in anything. On the same note the other chicas there were totally mat-bunnies. Kudos to them, I know how hard it is to find a partner that is cool with you taking off on long trips or going and hitting a sport that requires you to get fairly intimate with the opposite sex.
Ok anyways, I guess this is over, I just wanted to clarify my previous view. The stress was getting to me after coming back from a climbing trip at Currahee (north GA) all the while packing everything in a moving van, separating from the Mil, trying to sell my house, and moving to an area where as of right now, everything else has fallen through.
Happy climbing all, I hope to hit up some of the stuff in N. GA, Tennessee, and Missouri on my trip over there.
Cheers
~nic
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acacongua
Nov 8, 2007, 12:43 PM
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Missouri??? You've got the New and the Red in the area and you want to go to Missouri??
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sway-reincarnate
Nov 8, 2007, 3:18 PM
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not neccissarily want, but am. The driving route is taking me up from Augusta Ga, up to the I-75 through St louis across Kansas and then smacking into Denver. :)
Eh...
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geogoddess
Nov 8, 2007, 4:47 PM
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You are jsut going to totally love Boulder, for so many reasons..... Transitions are really hard, so sway_r, keep your stoke going, and just be you. Everything else will fall into place eventually.
When all else fails, I ride my mtn bike.
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acacongua
Nov 8, 2007, 7:27 PM
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Well, you're going to miss two fabulous climbing areas.
Anyway, about you being nervous with your skills - your belay skills - I would start with TR belaying only if you can. And then when someone leads, only belay her if she is climbing something that's "easy" for her so you can practice without dramatic clips. I bet after a week, you'll be an old pro again.
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