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climbsomething
Apr 5, 2007, 6:23 AM
Post #26 of 39
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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"But I'm short" is so 2004. Now, "But I have a negative ape index AND I'm short" is one I haven't worn out yet.
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rrrADAM
Apr 5, 2007, 6:41 AM
Post #27 of 39
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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My realtor, Yadi, climbs... And well I might add...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...nacles_Ca._6816.html
I doubt she's even 5' tall... She's backed off of plenty of routes at the gym and on the rock and said, "That route's not 'Yadi friendly'", when she couldn't reach the next hold.
She is a very graceful climber, and climbs very statically... She's happy with it, and if she can't reach a hold or find a way around it, she just gets on a different route.
(This post was edited by rrradam on Apr 5, 2007, 6:47 AM)
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crazygirl
Apr 5, 2007, 4:39 PM
Post #29 of 39
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Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
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i admire you all ladies who can dyno while leading a trad climb, i'm way too chicken to do that.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 5, 2007, 5:44 PM
Post #30 of 39
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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crazygirl wrote: i admire you all ladies who can dyno while leading a trad climb, i'm way too chicken to do that.
Dynoing while trad climbing ? Oh, yeah, I would be a big chicken, too. (especially since my trad climbing experience is nil so far... )
littlefingers wrote: in all honesty-- being short makes heel hooking a ton easier(or at least getting your feet over your head to do the heel hooking), and most often you come with fingers that can make use of the tiniest crimps. I've found if you're creative and determined enough, most things can go.
That is very true. I have felt that on certain types of routes being short is an advantage. But in the gym I do see more of the reachy kinds of problems.
I'm so itching to go outside. Damn snow and cold! We were going to go to RRG this weekend... 
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erisspirit
Apr 6, 2007, 12:02 AM
Post #32 of 39
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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HEHE just find a climb put up by a short person and laugh at people like me (5'8") and taller awkwardly try to use the hand holds and feet that are too close together and make your butt stick way out from being scrunched 
a girl at my gym did this, and had a good laugh at all the tall people who couldn't do it on the first time, while every short person did
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jedasmith
Apr 6, 2007, 1:51 AM
Post #33 of 39
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Registered: Mar 15, 2006
Posts: 64
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I am 4'11" & I feel your pain sistah!
The crazy-tall route setter at our gym had no sympathy at all-- that was until I provided a visual for him. He bent over and placed one hand on the floor and the other hand straight up; I stood next to him with both my arms straight up. His wing span was as long as my entire body from my foot to the tip of my middle finger with my arm extended above my head.
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petje
Apr 6, 2007, 7:01 AM
Post #34 of 39
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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309
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The world best female contest climber is also the smallest taking part in the world cups. almost all of the world best females are short. Look up pics of liv sansos of muriel sarkany for instance.
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rrrADAM
Apr 6, 2007, 7:03 AM
Post #35 of 39
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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And Beth Roden, and as mentioned Lynn Hill and Cicada.
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alisonut
May 7, 2007, 4:26 AM
Post #36 of 39
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Registered: Jul 21, 2002
Posts: 57
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Wow,
It's nice to hear from some one else who is 4' 11". I have been short for a long time. In fact ever since I can remember and unless I opt for the leg extension surgery nothing will change. But here are some things that you can change. Don't take that gym you're at too seriously. Get outside where the rock is real and possibility and nuance of feet exist. Do yoga so that you can reach your little foot right up to your chest. Not your boobs I don't really care about them or how big or small they are and am not sure why they keep coming up in posts. Suspect men infiltrating ladies room. Also look at it this way. You are getting more climbing in than those lankathons. Tall people reach. Short people climb.
One thing that really does suck though is not being able to reach a clip from a ledge that is convientently sitting in the middle of a climb. There are some situations where a badly placed clip can be dangerous for a short person and you may need a little extender. If someone says you are cheating cut of 12 inches from their legs and then let them talk. I'm having a deja vu right now. I think I've made this post before. I think we're on some kind of regurgitation loop here.
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mikitta
May 18, 2007, 11:54 PM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 301
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Hehe, I like your post.
I'm 5'1 and I always felt that I had to be a better climber than my partners who were 5'11 and 6'2 and what ever other tall combinations there were. The one and only thing that ever stopped me from climbing was getting fat. It makes a simple 5.4 scramble a 5.uhuh because it hurts to put all that weight on feet and hands.
I've hardly done any gym climbing, and even then it was only a little training home gym (not over 7 feet high around the inside of some guy's garage, so I don't know how I would do at it there :)
God Bless,
mik
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aimeerose
May 20, 2007, 3:35 AM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 574
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Hey, I'm short (5 foot even) with a negative ape index (about 1 in) and now I'm fat too! 10 lbs heavy after giving birth 8 weeks ago. I hope to climb a 5.12 at the end of our 10 day trip to Maple next month (and that would be one I did twice in one day clean while I was 2 months pregnant!)
Anyways, you just need to blow off those gym routes that are too reachy. Sometimes they just don't fit. That's cool. I never take what I climb in the gym seriously cause I can barely get up 11 or 11+ when outdoors I've climbed quite a bit harder.
Oh, and for those reachy clips look into getting a Frog made by Kong. You can get at least 6 inches more reach. Or make a stiff draw (but I love my Frog draw).
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 21, 2007, 3:27 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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I can't believe this thread is still going... I forgot about it already!
Aimee, I hope to someday climb at my "top-shape" as well as you climb 2 months post-partum. Congratulations! And thanks for the draw suggestion. I've only had the too-short-to-reach-for-a-bolt situation once so far. I was lucky b/c someone else led it first, so the draws were already in place and I could reach it to clip. But it is probably a good idea to have a stiff draw for a situation like that, rare though it may be.
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