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Czech climbing - who has been?
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timstich


Aug 26, 2006, 9:13 PM
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Czech climbing - who has been?
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Hey you guys and gals over in Europe!

I got to climb in the Czech Republic only once at a sandstone area called Suche Skaly. But I hiked around Cesky Raj several times and have guide books to various areas near Teplice and such. So have any of you been there? What did you climb and how did you like it? I actually have part ownership of an apartment near Petrohrad, the granite bouldering area near Rakovnik. I've never seen the boulders, however, and I doubt I will be back anytime soon.


uasunflower


Sep 1, 2006, 8:40 AM
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Re: Czech climbing - who has been? [In reply to]
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hmm, never been to the cheh part, but loved the german elbe sandstone. Very 'folkloric' i would say. There are some guys here on the site from around there - maybe they would be interested in your apt.


timstich


Sep 1, 2006, 10:29 PM
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Well, my soon to be ex-wife is going to live in the apartment. Ha. :lol: She's painting the cellar room this weekend.


funtom


Sep 4, 2006, 3:13 PM
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Re: Czech climbing - who has been? [In reply to]
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Howdy.I ve been in Teplicke skaly (not that teplice town on north! These are Teplice nad Metují near Trutnov). Really good climbing, mostly cracks with freaky friction climbing endings.Harder than other sandstone areas- still cracks cracks and they are very litle protected by fixed bolts or rings.Also chalk, nuts and cams are prohibited, you can use only slings with knots (chock like).So bring excelent morale with you. It is fantastic area with good climbing, some pubs are well known-u Peňáka.
Go there and You will see what isnt possible write.
About boulders in Petrohrad- go to footbal place (soccer for You :wink: )
and turn into forrest, boulders are everywhere, or follow people with crashpads-they must be there! There is also some short bolted routes, rock quality very goog granite.
Or go to Děčín and Labské údolí- this is also sandstone, closer to You, momentally the best sandy area in CZ.Climbing variable, cracks, face, friction.Beter protected(ehm :shock: ).Try Ostrov near Tisá.
If You are still around, you can find me in Karlovy Vary (31miles west from Petrohrad) in Hudy sport.Printed guides here available for all areas.
Have fun
Tom


timstich


Sep 27, 2006, 3:20 PM
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Thanks, Tom.


ihategrigris


Sep 27, 2006, 3:48 PM
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I don't know about the Chech republic, but on the Polish side of the Tatra mountains (just a hop over the boarder really) theres some awsome granite climbing.

Also, Suche Skaly means Dry Cliffs... thats a promissing name, isn't it?


timstich


Sep 27, 2006, 5:31 PM
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In reply to:
I don't know about the Chech republic, but on the Polish side of the Tatra mountains (just a hop over the boarder really) theres some awsome granite climbing.

Also, Suche Skaly means Dry Cliffs... thats a promissing name, isn't it?

They told me the sandstone was harder there, so you could climb after a rain sooner than other places.


maldaly


Sep 27, 2006, 6:55 PM
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I've been to Tisa. It's a wild park with lots of mushroom shaped towers that face all directions so you can usually find something that is dry. Hard-assed climbing, though. The mushroom shapes means the cruxes are usually just below the first ring which always seem to me at least 25' up. Nice cliffs along the Elbe between Hrensko and Decin, too. Bring those knotted slings....
Mal


funtom


Sep 29, 2006, 12:39 PM
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About climbing sandstones after rain- it is prohibited, you must wait 2 days in almost every area, except Such skly.Thats rules.Sandstones here are soft and when are wet after rain they are REALLY soft (and You can ripe off even big ledge). Near Tis is Ostrov and Labk, another areas where is rock better (geolog.older = harder) and you can climb sooner.
Hrub skla, Adrpach and Prachov are soft and are also National Park s , so dont try climb there after rain- or you will pay penalty.
Labk (Labsk dol), Ostrov are more free.On the end- when is raining, all climbers are in pub, training "FaceLifting" drinking beer and then "BodyLifting" on the way to bivy or camping. :D
Come here, ask locals and try it, its the best way.And knots are pretty good, i saw one guy take 25m flight onto 7mm cord with knot. Belayer was more scarryed than pilot :D

 

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