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macblaze
Jun 8, 2008, 2:28 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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I'll be floating up the canal Nivernais this July within spitting distance of le roche Saussois and it would be a pity not to jump on some rock. I don't want to drag my gear all the way over to Europe for a day's climbing so I was hoping to find a guide or other solution.
The internet has been unusually less-than-helpful, most likely because I have no idea what the french for climbing guide (the person) would be. So anyone have any websites, translations or other helpful advice so that I'm not stuck bouldering in my sandals?
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thomasribiere
Jun 8, 2008, 7:43 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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hello,
I got you PM a while back and I have to say that if I didn't answer you, I thought about it, but stayed a bit responseless...
In reply to: I've narrowed it down to The Somme, The Ardennes (I was born on a base in Marville) or perhaps Burgundy. A couple of sites have said there is climbing near Canal du Nivernais.
I really have to have a look at some maps, as I just don't know where this Canal du Nivernais is (I know the name, it's famous among the persons who boat on rivers. The Nivernais is an old french region, from before the Revolution, probably around Nevers, right? But where does this canal go to and where does it come from? I promise I'll have a look today!
Forget about climbing in the Somme. The Ardennes are not a good climbable arae though there's a few crags.
Sorry that your PM stayed unaswered, I got many of them and don't spend that much time on rc.com anymore.
thomas
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thomasribiere
Jun 8, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2002
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OK, now it looks interesting. So this canal is going from Auxerre to Decize, following the river Yonne (I lerna everyday).
Along this river, you have, as interesting crags :
1a/ le Saussois, on the east bank. Good pocketed limestone, 200 routes, IV+ to 8c (5.5 to 5.13c, average 5.10c). Facing W mostly.
1b/ le Rocher du Parc which is just 2 km north, facing the small village of La Rippe. 100 routes, almost nothing under 5.9, apparently polished.
2/ Surgy (sometimes known as Roches de Basseville), wich is an excellent crag, on the west bank of the river/canal. The crag is 3km south of the village of Surgy and 5 km north of the city of Clamecy. 350 routes on limestone, from 5.4 to 5.13c as well. facing E mostly.
This is all you'll find along the Canal du Nivernais / river Yonne. Eastwards, near Avallon and Vezelay, there are other crags.
About the guides (not the books, the humans!) : in non mountaineous areas, there is no guide, but "BE escalade" (Brevet d'Etat d'escalade = climbing State Certificate), which is the french national diploma which allows to guide climbers under the elevation of 1500 m (4500 ft); Over this elevation, it's only authorised by mountain guides.
You might find "Initiateurs", but I don't know whether they are allowed to guide climbers or not. I would say no, they moght only be able to watch for climbers in clubs and associations.
Next step, I'll try to find a list of BE in Burgundy.
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macblaze
Jun 9, 2008, 2:06 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Bien, merci.
I had not known about Roches de Basseville, although its right there on the map now that I look. We'll be cruising right there as well. I am assuming its sport not trad. I guess I will bring the shoes at a minimum but I am really of two minds about the rope and draws.
No problem about the pm, it was a shot in the dark, because since you're from France is is obvious you know everything there is to know.. right 
I'll do some searching for BE escalade, thanks... be sure to add it to you french/english dictionary!
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