|
breanandstoney
Nov 26, 2006, 12:48 AM
Post #1 of 12
(3196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 3
|
Through a friends brother who is becoming a monk in an Italian monostary we have the chance of a lifetime to visit Italy for two months this upcoming summer.
We are looking for any information we can get on Italy. Where is the best climbing? What is the closest climbing to a town? We will be traveling mostly by train from the way it sounds.
Thank you to anyone who responds! ~BreanAndStoney@msn.com
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Nov 26, 2006, 10:03 AM
Post #2 of 12
(3192 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
youll need to tell us a bit more about your plans... where in italy do you plan to be most of the time, type of climbing you prefer etc.
theres climbing basicly all over italy, but the north (val di mello&co) and south with islands (sardegna and sicily) are reputed to be the best.
|
|
|
|
|
tisar
Nov 26, 2006, 10:41 AM
Post #3 of 12
(3191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
|
Hey breanandstoney!
Welcome to Europe then! Two months is a lot of time to spend, and if I were you I'd consider traveling around a little. For climbing that would namely be to France, maybe the Swiss Alps and why not have a look at Eastern Europe?
I'm not an expert on climbing in Italy, but there'll be enough people in the EuroFreaks forum happy to help you out with any beta needed. Sure the north with the Alps has the most variety of areas. Arco, the Dolomites, the Engadin valleys... Also depends a little on what type of climbing you're interested in.
One thing: You say, you'll be coming 'next summer'. Depending on when exactly you are in Italy, a lot of the areas might be baking hot. Sardinia for example is considerably unclimbable from June to August, maybe September.
- Daniel
(This post was edited by tisar on Nov 26, 2006, 10:44 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
breanandstoney
Nov 26, 2006, 9:41 PM
Post #4 of 12
(3175 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 3
|
overlord wrote: youll need to tell us a bit more about your plans... where in italy do you plan to be most of the time, type of climbing you prefer etc. theres climbing basicly all over italy, but the north (val di mello&co) and south with islands (sardegna and sicily) are reputed to be the best.
Wel, we're not looking to carry a lot of gear as we will be carrying only a large backpack most likely.
So sport climbing for the most part.
High quality 5.7-5.9 climbing from single to multi-pitch. We're going to be checking out all of Europe so climbing and sight-seeing will be a lot of what we're doing. We are willing to travel all over for climbing. Thanks! ~Stoney
|
|
|
|
|
breanandstoney
Nov 26, 2006, 9:44 PM
Post #5 of 12
(3174 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 3
|
Well we're just starting to plan so that was just an estimate on the date we'll be there. I deffinetely want to go to the alps for a few days.
Any reccommendations on where and what routes to climb? Thanks man. ~Stoney
|
|
|
|
|
heiko
Nov 28, 2006, 5:12 AM
Post #6 of 12
(3158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
|
Stoney,
first of all, two months in Italy should be an awesome experience. There's so much to do and see :)
With regards to climbing (and I speak only of the north here):
- Grades: 5.7 to 5.9 sport is unfortunately not the "preferred" level of climbing in this area. You see, it's mostly pretty steep limestone up here, and the fun really begins at 5.10. In the popular areas (like Arco for example, where you have loads of climbing even within walking distance from a beautiful Italian village), anything below 5.10 is often hopelessly polished. Or crowded. Or both.
- Mountains: if you want to climb in the Dolomites, please consider a few things. First of all, usually people climb way below their limits here, for a several reasons: loose rock, complicated route finding and protectability problems. On top of that, weather conditions are a serious issue, thunderstorms are frequent, and perfectly clear and safe days during summer are rare (when it's safe, it's cold). Plus, the Dolomites are trad, so you need at least a small rack, and usually you climb on double ropes in order not to have your rope cut by a rockfall like this Austrian dude who died a couple months ago.
- other areas like Val di Mello or Valle del Orco are trad. You need a proper rack. Rock quality is better, but the weather issues persist.
If this is all no problem for you, you can have a great time, climb beautiful routes in a setting that is just breathtaking. Check the routes-db here for pics 
Otherwise, for safer and easier climbing that requires less gear, I propose Switzerland, e.g. Ponte Brolla, which has easy, well-bolted routes on bomber granite. It's 3hrs from Milan, but might be a bit hot from June to August.
Maybe for a bit of first-hand experiences you can try to contact climberkat here on RC. She climbed a lot in Yosemite before and I took her to climb a route in the Dolomites this past summer. It was a good day, and I'm sure she can give you a good perspective.
At any rate, the EuroFreaks hope to have you around for a beer next year! 
Cheers,
Heiko
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Nov 29, 2006, 8:33 AM
Post #7 of 12
(3147 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
well, if you like esier routes, check out crni kal in slovenia. it will be hot as hell though, but its just across the border.
apart from that, some crags in the gorenska region have easier routes, and theyre basicly in the alps.
|
|
|
|
|
ghisino
Nov 29, 2006, 1:35 PM
Post #8 of 12
(3142 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
|
as stated before, really good climbing in italy starts from quite high grades. Also, public transport isn't that good expecially in the mountains (and since you'll be here in summer you'll want to climb higher up where the weather is a bit cooler right?).
AND easy stuff in italian alps usually requires at least a small rack : most of the times they are "classic" ascents made many years ago with pitons and hammer, and one dares to put bolts on them...
However, I could suggest Val Gerola, near Sondrio. Never been there really, but there are several recently bolted structures on conglomerate, and fairly easy grades.
Also, there are some easy routes near Dalmazzi mountain hut, wich is close to Courmayeur. They are bolted, but will still require two or three cams (usually measures between 0.75 and 2 camalot) and a small set of chocks.
Also note that a lot of mountain huts will have the occasional small bolted crag near them...mostly really easy stuff...The people who run the hut consider this might attract some peole willing to try climbing with a mpountain guide.
Near Italy I could say Briançon, france : there you have really tons of bolted crags and multipitches mostly in fairly easy grades.
Another good place close to the italian border might be Sciora hutte, in the swiss valley called Bergell (the one that ends with Malojapass).
There you will get fantastic view over massive granite peaks, a small easy crag, and at least one very good easy bolted multipitch (route "Bugeleisen" on the Pizzi Gemelli mountain). However note that the last mentioned will require the couple of cams already mentioned.
very important
If you consider climbing any kind of multipitches here, note that 95% of them require rappeling down with two ropes.
Last but not least, I can suggest you a good topo book :
"Schweiz Plaisir sud" by Jurg von Kanel.
It offers a wide selection of easy climbing places in the south of switzerland and also in the italian and french Alps. You won't find *everything* there, but you get a good idea of where to go and witch are the top routes and crags. Written in german, french and italian.
editor's website : www.filidor.ch
|
|
|
|
|
uasunflower
Nov 29, 2006, 2:02 PM
Post #9 of 12
(3140 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
|
the sweizz extreme topos from filidor are awesome too
|
|
|
|
|
pro_alien
Dec 17, 2006, 9:34 PM
Post #11 of 12
(3086 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 256
|
About "Schweiz Plaisir Süd" - there is a new SAC guidebook for Ticino that is much more complete.
(Ticino e Moesano - Glauco Cugini).
Pascal
|
|
|
|
|
ghisino
Dec 18, 2006, 10:12 AM
Post #12 of 12
(3075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
|
pro_alien wrote: About "Schweiz Plaisir Süd" - there is a new SAC guidebook for Ticino that is much more complete. (Ticino e Moesano - Glauco Cugini). Pascal
yes, awesome, monumental work, but I thought that schweizplaisir would fit their interest (broad area covered, easy stuff only) better than gecko's book. I don't think that the guys who posted this might even slightly be interested in sonlerto, cevio, calnegia, torbeccio, osogna, cresciano, claro, caslano and so on...wonderful places but really too hard for them..
|
|
|
|
|
|
