Training for Climbing

A good book. I read this thing cover to cover once a season (around winter) when its time for training season. Covers the fundamentals for identifying weakness, target training for these weakness, setting up a long term exercise schedule implementing these, and the proper eating for energy/accelerated recovery.

I bought this book for my "beginner-intermediate" buddy. Great buy, well worth it. Unfortunately, this book outdates both Flash Training and How to Climb 5.12. If you already have both of those, you should buy this also (I had both before).

Great book for building physical power, for honing your sport climbing fitness. Hörst ignores endurance, alpine climbing, etc. He seems to have strictly a cragging mentality.

The best book for rock-climbing training, period. A major improvement on Hörst’s previous book, “Flash Training,” and more informative on the subject than the others out there. Sections on specific drills and exercises, mental training, training programs, sports training science and theory, nutrition, and even a small section on injuries are explained clearly. As for Hörst’s recommendations, the reader learns why these things work, not just how to integrate them into their training. I particularly like the way Hörst invites self-assessment and, with the guidance of the text, allows the reader to build a sound training program that addresses the reader’s weaknesses.

It should be noted that this book is probably most helpful to the sport climber, although most everything is applicable for bouldering and trad climbing. Alpine climbers will not glean as much from the text. Goddard and Neumann’s “Performance Rock Climbing” is a good supplement (also aimed at sport climbers), but go for this book first, and get stronger.

If you are trying to get stronger this book has the latest information and research. It is well layed out with many different training programs. I have read several traning books and this is the best by far. I have used the techniques and seen inprovements, just don't over train, your body need time to recover...

For what it is it is a great book. I guess I just find books about training boring. I'd rather just climb.