Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

ATC-XP Belay Device popular

Average Rating = 4.46/5 Average Rating : 4.46 out of 5
Item Details | Reviews (76)
Premier Sponsor:



Our new ATC-XP is a true variable-friction belay and rappel device. What’s this mean in plain English? Well, with the ATC-XP, a climber can control how much friction they want while belaying or rapping, which in turn means greater control with multiple rope diameters. Ice climbing with an 8.1-mm rope? Use the ATC-XP in high-friction mode, pulling the rope over the ATC-XP’s contoured teeth. Abseiling with a fuzzy 11-mm down a granite slab? Use the device in regular-friction mode. An extended central web keeps biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces kinking. An added bonus is the thick rope-bearing radii of the ATC-XP—which means ropes wear less and last longer.

- Belay/rappel device with exceptional holding power
- Great for use with ropes of different diameters—8.1–11 mm
- Thick rope-bearing radii reduce rope wear

76 Reviews

GoWrite your own Review
GoRead all 76 reviews

Great Belay Device 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: hershelgibbs, 2008-11-04

I bought this as my first belay device. I have used the ATC and it is fine for top roping but I like the XP for lead climbing a little more for the extra friction. I didn't even think that you could turn at around and use the low friction side. I will be trying that next time I got climbing, because lowering someone on top rope takes a little longer on the friction side. Overall great belay device, I don't even use a grigri anymore its just easier using the XP.

Great Belay Device! 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: Climbhigh1123, 2008-09-10

I like this device a lot, it allows a lot of control especially on the high friction side. It's perfect for a beginning climber because its ease of use, and the control it allows. I notice that on the HF side, locking off is very easy, and doesn't require a lot of pressure to keep it locked, and also to catch a fall. The only thing I found is if you're using the HF side and have someone light on the other end, bringing them down can be a little... slow. Also, be warned like in one of the other reviews, with a big carabiner and this ATC XP clipped on your belay loop, it can hurt if it hits you in the nuts! The regular friction side works very well, and is great for lighter people. I feel comfortable even handling someone 50 pounds more than me on the RF side. I've NEVER been that confident with such a device like this, until I got my ATC XP!

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: Schimke, 2008-02-19

I bought a atc-xp for my first belay device and havent bought another one for 2 years!!

In other words its great and locks off well!

Best belay out there 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: uberwhipper, 2008-02-18

this device offers great flexiblity. my wife is around 90 pounds and i am around 170 so she really likes the extra friction side. I usually use the low friction side unless I am trying to eat a sandwich or belaying a fat guy. to be honest i haven't rapped on it, but the low friction side does not seem that different from the standard atc so if you like that you could always use the LF side.

Great belay device when your partner outweighs you! 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: tigerlilly, 2008-01-14

And so far, I've only climbed with one person that didn't outweigh me. I can tell the difference in holding power between this and a regular ATC, especially when said heavier partner is hangdogging a gym route. I have to flip it to low friction mode for rappelling, though, or I just don't move.

GoRead all 76 reviews

Write a Review