Review by: Gdog42, 2013-05-15
This has been the best ATC I've ever used. It's durable and lightweight, and the friction is adjusted by flipping it so there's no teeth to wear down like on other friction control ATCs. The cooling fins actually work- it takes A LOT of rope work just to warm this thing up on the outside, compared to my carabiner which is always burning hot after a long belay or rappel.
It's easy to use. The small end against the biner squeezes the rope more, which gives more friction. This end is also good for sport belaying because the device points inwards, which makes feeding the rope trough the wide end slightly easier. So far it has never jammed.
Also, the new version has a nice dark look and is unpainted, so there's no paint to wear of if that's something you might not like. (I'm one of those fussy guys who likes his gear to look clean!) The actual device has not yet shown any wear, and I doubt it will for a long time. Not too expensive, neither. Thanks Trango!