About Shimenguan Gorge:
| After repeated negotiations with the government, development on this area finally began in December 2010 with 11 initial routes. In March 2012, 8 additional routes were added. There is still tremendous potential for more routes, including multi-pitch and traditional routes. As the crags are in the sun for most of the day, it’s best to plan a 2-day trip here. Try to arrive around 2pm on Day 1, and climb until dusk. Wake early on Day 2 and climb until the early afternoon. All of the routes are located just outside the massive gorge on a handful of massive boulders, and most are clearly visible from the trail. From the parking lot, follow the stone tourist trail into the park for about 10 minutes. and where the main tourist trail turns right near a few large boulders, simply turn left onto a dirt trail [many thanks to Matt and Lara for dedicating a couple days to carving this out] through the bush, and up across a large boulder. Most of the routes can be accessed within a 10 minute walk from the main tourist trail. Since the gorge is a designated tourist area, there is a 10RMB charge to enter. There is a neat trail that leads into the gorge and a chance for some swimming, which can be a pleasant diversion when it becomes too hot to climb. Swimming is technically prohibited, so try to be discrete. Also, drinking the water (from slightly upstream) seems to be okay. |
| Approach: | To get there using public transportation, take a bus to Yangbi for 10RMB and tell the driver you want to get off at Shimenguan. You can see the gorge from the road, but unfortunately upon getting off the bus you will have to walk for an additional 45 minutes or take a tuk-tuk or van for 15RMB. |
| Approach Time: | Update |
| Latitude, Longitude: | Update |
| Access Issues: | All access issues have basically been resolved. Simply sign the waiver at the end of the Dali rock climbing guidebook that releases the park from all liability, and bring a photocopy of your passports as backup. BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT NOT DAMAGING THE NUMEROUS WALNUT TREES IN THE VICINITY OF THE CRAGS, IN ORDER TO AVOID HARMING OUR RELATIONSHIP WITH THE LOCALS. |
| Rock Type: | Gneiss |
| Type of Climbing: | Sport |
| Sun Aspect: | Afternoon Sun |
Routes
Sequence Sequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. |
Rating | Route | Difficulty | Ascents |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
|
Apprentice of Satan | 5.10a | 0 |
| 0 |
|
BB Kuen Kuen Chu | 5.8 | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Blood Puke | 5.12c | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Cherry Poppin’ | 5.10b | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Donkey Schnitzel | 5.6 | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Dry humping | 5.10b | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Flamingo Kid | 5.9 | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Kritz-arête | 5.11b | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Moxis on the Roof David | 5.11c | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Open PROJECT | 5.12d | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Red Beard’s Choice | 5.10d | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Roast Goat Parade | 5.7 | 0 |
| 0 |
|
So Long and thanks for the bolts | 5.12a | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Stolen Baba | 5.10c | 0 |
| 0 |
|
The Gardeners of Eden | 5.11a | 0 |
| 0 |
|
The land of the Laaa | 5.9 | 0 |
| 0 |
|
The mysteries of Vulcan | 5.11b | 0 |
| 0 |
|
W.W.S.D. | 5.10d | 0 |
| 0 |
|
Where’s the Peanut Butter? | 5.10b | 0 |
