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Malaysia has it all: an array of limestone outcrops on Peninsular Malaysia, granite boulders and monoliths at the east coast, limestone crags and sandstone mountains in Sarawak and alpine granite and big walls in Sabah.
However, this vast potential is still awaiting exploration and development by a small, but growing community.
The hub of Malaysian climbing is still KL with the two main regions Batu Caves and Bukit Takun. All the crags listed in the KL region are located at Batu Caves, the last limestone outcrop on Peninsular Malaysia.
Further south there is nothing but granite, most of it hidden by dense jungle.
The huge potential lies north of KL, in the states Perak (around Ipoh), Perlis, Kelantan and Pahang where hundreds of limestone crags wait for being explored. The big unknown is East Malaysia that can offer another enormous untapped potential of climbing crags.
Most of the routes in Malaysia are bolted sportclimbs on limestone crags, with some trad exceptions on granite walls. Malaysia is using the French grading system.
The weather in Malaysia is tropical, meaning same temeperature all year long. Rain season should kick in during april and may, followed by a little bit dryer time from june till august. The rain strikes again in september and october, while november till february is considered dry season.
However, being in the inner tropics the rain and dry seasons are less dramatic compared to Thailand or Bangladesh. Usually rain sets in around 3.00 pm, independent on the actual season. Climbing is possible throughout the year: the rock, especially limestone dries quickly even after tormental storms.
Watch out for the exceptional heat and humidity, especially when you are used to climbing at moderate temperatures. Standard equipment for a Malaysian crag is sun cream, mosquito repellent and plenty of water.
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