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Routes : Australasia : Australia : New South Wales : South of Sydney : Nerriga

Nerriga

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Climbing Sections:

About Nerriga:

Nerriga has had a resurgence of activity in recent years that has increased the number of routes to over 60. With rock formations unlike any other sandstone in NSW, leading to a unique mix of climbing styles. First developed by Brogan Bunt, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten and a crew of others, it faded, almost into history when Nowra exploded in a new route fetish. Leaving over 30 climbs on wildly different rock, to the Lyre birds. Without a guide book in print, it remained a place that people drove past on their way to Nowra or Point Perpindicular from Canberra. This changed when Corey Sawyer arrived in Canberra, walked into a gear store and asked about places with new route potential. Gavin Oliver had seen Nerrigas short walls calling to be climbed and new routes started appearing, more than 10 years after the last one. Both Corey & Gavin left Canberra and again little was done. Early 2004 saw Gavin breifly return to first ascents before moving to the Bluies and there is now a group of people interested in the potential and keen to get others to play.
Nearest town or city: Nowra / Canberra
Directions: The climbing at Nerriga can be found on the CMA 1:25,000 Nerriga map at Bulle Gap (150"08'E, 35"05'S). This is 1 3/4 hrs from Canberra, heading towards Braidwood and following the Nerriga turn off just before Braidwood. From Nowra its a 40min, continuing past the RAAF Base (about 50kms of Nowra - Nerriga is on dirt roads unsuitable for 2WD after rain). Park at the Bulee Gap road cutting and then there are a number of options. Walk through the cutting and immediately to the right are 4 random short routes. Instead of going up the gully, continue another 2 min to a small butress split by a leadge at half way with 2 sport routes. The best climbing in this area is to be had another 5 mins further around to the right at a wall with about 10 lines (most sport), grade 18 - 25. This is Austin Powers Ledge. Another 5 mins past this again is a small area with 3 steep routes at 25+. All areas have potential for more lines and bouldering abounds. Back at the cutting if you cross the road and follow the cliff line left, at 20 minute walk will take you past the majority of the original climbs, with trad, sport and mixed routes up to grade 28. These are concentrated under the power lines. The most spectacular feature is 45 degree overhang of The Gym. Often described as the most heavily featured overhung wall that people have seen, let alone climbed on. The Gym only has 4 routes but they are spectacular. If you climb 24+ they alone are worth the trip to this side of the road and there's more than 20 other routes. About 250m down the road towards Nerriga for the road cutting is another collection of climbs on & around Oh Baby Butress with about 15 sport routes 18 - 25. One wall was described by a long time Canberra climber as having the most consistently sloping holds they had ever pulled on. Fortunately the other wall starts out quite technically and leads into big holds on overhung rock. Again there is untouched rock all over the place and several people with acess to drills are scoping lines that will soon be open to all to play on.
Latitude, Longitude: -35.05000, 150.08000
Access Issues:
Camping: Yes
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Year