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Tibrogargan - East Face

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About Tibrogargan - East Face:

30 routes on 250m high face. This wall facing the ocean is home to most of the biggest and scariest routes graded under 16 in Oz! Expect loose rock, zero protection and not much for belays. A few good sport routes are located along the bottom in the 18 - 23 range. Since this original description was written by Orange Overhang there has been quite a lot of work done on the east face to establish more new routes. More new mixed sport/trad routes have been put up particularly in the vicinity of Clemency/Lancelot. A couple of well protected new multi pitch routes have been put up recently as well. I would certainly recommend the front face of Tibro as a destination for any aspiring climber with the proviso that he should definitely have good gear placement skills and also the ability to read and understand the guide which should make route finding much easier. Many of the routes definitely wander and a hallmark of climbing on Tibro is the ability to find your way through confusing vertical terrain. Be prepared to use you whole body at its maximum span to progress at times. Due to the blocky nature of the volcanic deposit on this face it is sometimes necessary to search for handholds in the most unlikely places, get in the habit of peering under blocks as you move up. Go here for a more comprehensive guide to all of the Glasshouses. online guide book
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Volcanic
Type of Climbing: Sport/Trad
Sun Aspect:


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
0 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Black Orpheus (1) 5.3 2
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Caves Route 0
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 The Simon Vos Memorial 18m 27 (1) 5.12c 0
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Airtime Over Pumicestone 245 metre 21 5.10d 1
1 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Aphelion 90m 22 5.11a 2
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Caritas 18m 21 5.10d 0
1 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Clemency 192m 16 5.8 1
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Lancelot 90m 15 5.7 0
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Voyager 100m 22/23 5.11b 1

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The Simon Vos Memorial 18m 27
Black Orpheus
No route specified No route specified No route specified