About Chinamans Bluff:
This is a 530m high rock with a handful of multi pitch routes on it including the 10 pitch classic ***"The Ravages of Time" (20). The climbing style is mainly cracks and slabs, most long routes have mixed protection. Some people camp in the shelter at the road end. **Chinaman's has heaps of recently-developed one pitch routes as well, starting at about grade 17 (5.8 for those used to YDS). Most of these are totally bolted. There is accomodation of all sorts in Glenorchy, from a great holiday park ($9 a night for tent, clean bathrooms and good kitchen facilities), a backpackers behind the Pub (Glenorchy Hotel) and nice accomodation at the Glen Roydon Lodge and the Mt. Earnslaw Motel. |
Nearest town or city: | Queenstown |
Directions: | Head out of Queenstown towards Glenorchy. Once through Glenorchy, follow the signs to "Paradise." The last civilization of any sort is in Glenorchy, but stock up on groceries in Queenstown. The crag is near the (Dart) end of the Rees-Dart Track. Walk up valley for 15 mins until track heads into the bush. To get to the single pitch stuff, head up through the ferns to the rock face when the trail heads into the grassland... OR (to get to Ravages) after about 40 mins walking the main track zig zags down a hill, crossing a small creek from the right. You should see the main river not far down to the left. Head up the creek following a fluro tape tagged route. This arrives at the RHS of the main cliff. Head left across this and you will arrive at the bottom of the 2nd pitch of Ravages. It is a small thin slab. Most people don't climb the first pitch as it is often wet. |
Latitude, Longitude: | Update |
Access Issues: | Update |
Camping: | Yes |
When to Climb: | Update |
Quantity of Climbs: | Week |