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Te Ananui

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About Te Ananui:

A small secluded beach on the Coromandel that happens to host cliffs of orange, variable quality rhyolite rock above a soft pink sandy beach and warm ocean. Combined with the famed Coromandel sunshine, this could be NZ's answer to Thai climbing, but without the tourists and the need for a trad rack to use in its fiddly cracks. There are a few rusted-out bolted lines there, as well as scope for many more on more solid rock further down the beach, but mostly the horizontally banded rock provides more than adequate amounts of climbing for bold purists that don't mind scraggly pohutukawa abseils and rusty, rusty anchors. The most beautiful location you are ever likely to climb at.
Nearest town or city: Whangamata
Directions: 12 km north of Whangamata on the eastern side of the Coromandel peninsular. From Whangamata about 5 km's out, take the Onemana road on the right. From there take the right-hand fork at the top of the hill, along this road take a left turn where you will reach a car park in the forest. There is a track leading down from this car park to the beach of Te Ananui Bay. The first set of cliffs are on the southern part of this initial beach, then walk past these through a rock arch you will get to another beach area where the main climbing is done. There is no camping, fires etc allowed in the area and there is a sign saying that the gates are locked at 7pm, however I'm not sure if this has ever happened. Lock your car up in the car park and take valuables with you, as your car is a long way away and easily plundered.
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