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A 20 metre cliff spanning 40 metres with about a dozen climbs ranging from grade 14-23 (29? project). The freaky thing about this wall is climbing above the river. You have to abseil down then climb out so choose your route carefully or you’ll be prussiking up it. There are 12 routes including aretes, a crack, slab, bulges and small overhangs.Access is easiest from the Palmerston North side as this avoids a U-turn on the busy road. Drive through the gorge for about 5 minutes and stop in one of the many pull-over bays on the left. The correct one is quite small distinguished by having a metal barrier separating the east end from the road. Walk further east along the road for about 5 minutes (this can be dangerous so try to pick when the trucks aren't coming) past 3 pull off spots. Descend a steep dirty path to the prominent bluff just above the White Horse rapid (train bridge and waterfall across gorge). Use the lower off bolts at the top of the each bluff to reach the belay stations at a semi-ledge a few feet from the water (depending on flow).
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