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Routes : Europe : Spain : Catalunya : Montsant

Montsant

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About Montsant:

Siurana is one of those well known areas like Buoux, Verdon etc that was great in it's day (early 80's) but...for the steep long sustained stuff, what the Spanish call "conti", check out the long cliffband visible accross the valley east of Siurana. This is Montsant, where dwells the famous Hidrophobia 8b+ that Katie Brown flashed in a 1-hour battle, and many other routes equally brilliant if not as hard. A recent issue of Grimper named it the best cliff in Catalunya - heady praise considering all the rock in the area - and the Raco de Misa sector surely lives up to that claim with a stunning collection of routes from 6b to 8b+ on very solid and compact pocketed conglomerate stone. People with small fingers will have the advantage over their sausage-fingered partners due to the many 2-finger pockets. Mont Sant also dries out quicker than many other areas because of it's exposure on a high hillside hillside and the fact that it doesn't seep as much. After Ceuse (and the nearby Rodellar, which is different in character), this is the best crag I've been to. Most will camp at Siurana and drive to Montsant (15 min). Grimper Magazine May 2004 and Desnivel magazine July 2004 have great up-to-date articles with topos to Toni's new areas which I wish I had when I was there - pm me and I'll copy and mail it to you
Nearest town or city: la Morera de Montsant
Directions: From Cornudella, drive to Morera de Montsant, take the left fork at the beginning of town, then the first dirt track on the right which is paved at first. Drive 5k on this till a huge left facing recess comes into view (it's the only part of the cliffline hidden from view from the road) and park. If you start going downhill on the road you've gone too far. A stout 30 min hike accesses the cliff.
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Camping: Pay
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Quantity of Climbs: Month

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