Skip to Content

Surfs Up - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
gear to 3 inches, double 1 inch
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Found on the South end of the West face, Surfs Up is accessed via the Snowpatch/Bugaboo Col. Pitch 1. Climb/scramble up easy fifth class to a shallow wide ledge. Pitch 2. Stay left of the stacked left facing flakes, climbing the face on small face cracks, through small roofs gaining a sling belay. (5.8) Pitch3. Traverse up and left from the belay to a dihedral. Follow the dihedral though a small roof at its top and build your anchor right of the sling belay. (5.8) Pitch 4. Follow the steepening left facing corner through a crux bulge at its top and pull over blocks into a alcove. (5.9) Pitch 5. Follow a finger corner crack climbing over blocks going to the right out of the alcove. Gain a small sloping ledge, traversing right and down climb to Surfs Up Ledge. (5.7) Pitch 6. Lay back up the obvious 3.5 inch wide flake from Surfs up ledge over blocks and up steep alcoves. (5.9) Pitch 7. Jam your way up the amazing 1 inch splitter crack, though a short chimney to a pedestal belay. (5.8). Pitch 8. Climb the crack furthest to the right (5.7) Traverse the summit ridge to the top of the Kraus-McCarthy Rappel route.

Submitted by: slavetogravity on 2004-08-13
Views: 2359
Route ID: 57842

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Surfs Up

Not a sustained route by any means, but three stellar granite crack pitches above the cool Surfs Up Ledge make it worthy. Easy to get lost on pitch three, why? Because everybody is doing it, therefore rubbing off the moss and lichen making it look like the obvious way (tons of tat left on a chockstone up there, yes we did it too!). So atop pitch 2, next to a huge slung pinnacle, move diagonally right along stacked flakes with tons of lichen on them vs up and left following the worn off corner. The three crack pitches are all equal in how fun they are...the final, even though rated 5.7, is as good as the first two in my opinion. The setting is exceptional out on the ridge/arete. Cheers.

Added: 2009-08-30

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1992-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars With Fred Ramsing

Fantastic route.
Descent slightly obscure...

Added: 2007-11-14

Onsight Onsight ascent by: bc2planker on 2006-10-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-10-17

Onsight Onsight ascent by: jand on 2006-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-09-06