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Sugarloaf

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Climbing Sections:

About Sugarloaf:

Victoria's premier crag by far. Routes are mostly 45meters or so, bring two ropes to get off. This is an atmospheric place to climb, with great views. Takes about an hour to 1.5 hours to hike in. You could probably camp at the base of it if you want to spend more than a day there.
Nearest town or city: Victoria
Directions: Drive down highway 14 towards Sooke. 5 minuites past Luxton the passing lanes end; just after this there is an obvious pull out on the right hand side with mail boxes. Park here. On the left hand side of the pull out there are two driveways, start up the one to the right, but qucikly turn onto a faint path to the left. Walk down until you see a large concrete pipe (I mean about 1 meter in diameter) on your left hand side. Walk down this pipe for about 30m until it comes up on a well built gravel road. Cross this road and go down the faint road that parallels the gravel road on the left side. Walk down this road past a CRD do not enter sign and a large red gate. Eventually you come to a creek bed. Cross the creek and walk down to road to the left. This road climbs up the side of a hill while paralleling the highway (you can hear it but not see it). At the fork, take the right road and continue up the hill. The road will slowly turn to the right and eventually reach a marked private property line. Walk up the creekbed to your right here following the cairnes and orange flagging tape. Eventually, you'll reach another old road, turn to the right on it. After about 15 minuites, you will see a cairne and orange flagging tape marking a faint trail to right. Climb up this trail marked with several cairnes. The trail climbs steeply up a hill and eventually reaches the main wall of sugarloaf on the other side of the hill. Most of the trail, especially past the property line is well marked with cairnes and orange flagging tape. ****FEB 2006 UPDATE**** Access across private property to the park is being discouraged, so climbers 'should' use the old Mt. Braden trailhead for access. This is located east of the sawmill which is next to the pullout leading to the old trailhead. Directions are in the 2004 Victoria guidebook.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: Free
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Day

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