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Jamapa Glacier (North Face) - popular

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Crampons, Axe, possibly snow stakes and ice screws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI1 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Follow cairns from the hut at Piedra Grande. Head left through rock bands(whatever you do do *not* go up the big scree slope). A long slog up the glacier leads to the crater rim, which is traversed to the right to the actual summit. A very good introduction to high altitude mountaineering with very little objective danger. Watch out for storms and get a very early start(1 AM recommended). Best season is from Novemeber until March, and the glacier gets icier later in the season.

Submitted by: eduardoo_85 on 2006-02-26
Views: 2644
Route ID: 5732

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10 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: davebal4 on 2008-12-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Another successful Orizaba summit

Wow, don't underestimate the altitude! We spent one day acclimating at the hut (14k feet) and were very humbled by the thin air, (coming from sea level)! Awesome experience, great views, and nice people around. Never used any pro, just crampons and axe. Be careful of those 4 inch crevasses, they could swallow your cliff bars whole!

Added: 2009-01-06

  Difficulty WI1 M1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Hyperherbivore on 2007-12-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pico de orizaba - Jamapa Glacier

Great peak. We ran into some serious wind at the top and some bullet proof ice along the rim of the crater. We skipped the Labyrinth and went straight up to the base of the glacier - saved about 2 hours but the pitch was fairly steep. Took about 7 hours from the Piedra Grande hut to peak. Don't underestimate this mountain.

Added: 2008-02-13

  Difficulty F
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1983-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Merry christmas, moviehouse.

took a nap in the warm sands of 18,000 ft !!!!

Added: 2007-11-08

Red Point Red Point ascent by: eduardoo_85 on 2005-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Beautiful Mountain.
Esay, excellent as introduction to high altitude mountaineering.
The crux is the last part of the glacier, the last pull to the summit crater is tiring, but extremely beautiful.
We walked from Miguel Hidalgo, a small town and our stuff was portered in a mule by a kid.
From Piedra Grande hut, it took us 7 hours to the summit.
I reccommend an early start, it gets very sunny and there is a lot of water from melting.
Beautiful, respectable mountain.

Witnessed by: Pablo Urrutia, Daniel Monsivais
Added: 2005-07-07

Red Point Red Point ascent by: vlad_breton on 2005-02-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2005-02-07

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