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Cassin Ridge - ED2

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Cassin, R.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 WI5 M4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


APPROACH--11.5 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna, via Northeast Fork to the 11,500 foot bergschrund; move quickly and camp with attention to hanging glaciers.

TOTAL TIME--10 to 18 days

VERTICAL GAIN--8,800 feet

DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--40 to 65 degree snow and ice climbing in the Japanese Couloir (11,500 to 13,300 feet) and on Corniced Arete (13,500 to 13,900 feet); up to 5.8 rock on several pitches climbing up to 16,400 feet.

CAMPS--13,400 (CASSIN LEDGE); 13,900; 15,700; 17,000; 18,100 (most try to summit from here).

Submitted by: polarwid on 2008-09-06
Views: 2076
Route ID: 12104

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9 WI5 M4 D
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanmfreeman on 2007-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars it's all it's cracked up to be

great climb but poor (very snowy) conditions. 59 hours on the route with a couple of long, comfortable bivies. the NE fork was scary (witnessed 2 large serac falls, one of which sprayed us), but the route was easier than expected. our summit day was very warm, clear, and calm. the Japanese Couloir had a very steep (95 degree) section, and 2 80-90 degree sections.

Added: 2007-08-19

Red Point Red Point ascent by: andersmag on 2006-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I thought I could share some information from the Cassin Ridge for those of you thinking of attempting it next summer.

Me and and my partner did the Cassin early June after acklimatising on the West Buttress to the summit prior to the acsent. We approached the Cassin via the West Rib which was very smooth and much faster than using the NE Fork approach. We heard reports of icefall and difficult conditions in the NE Fork from the Rangers although we didn't get a chance to go there and check it out (the report said parties had to turn around dur to very difficult terrain in the NE Fork). The Rib was good, avalanche conditions were bad in some parts but could easily be circumvented by down climbing on ridges. We did one rappel in the Chicken colouir but I guess we could have done without it as well. It took appr. 6 hours from the 14200 camp to the bergschrund below the Japanese colouir.

Conditions were dry. The past two winters have been dry as well so we found the climbing to include less snow and more hard ice. This made it possible to move faster but it was hard on the calves. The Japanese was pure ice all the way and mixed at the top due to the dry conditions.

The Ice Rib was good and possible to protect with ice screws.

The bergschrund on the hanging glacier was very easy and could be passed via a bridge on the right hand side.

We got lost in the second rock band. The dry conditions made the standard colouir that accesses the second rock band look very difficult so we circumvented it on the far left (which was why we got a bit lost). It was possible to traverse back to the standard route higher up.

The snow was hard packed which made it easier on the higher parts.

We made two bivis except for by the bergschrund under the Japanese: on the hanging glacier (very good) and atop the third rock band. I would think that any bivi in between the rock bands would be very exposed and not so comfortable.

We spent two and a half day on the route plus one day for the approach.

It was a great route and good luck to anyone attempting it.


Added: 2006-06-03

  Difficulty M5
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: akicebum on 2005-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

51 hours on the route. Approached from the NE Fork.

Witnessed by: Stefan Ricci
Added: 2005-06-26