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North Buttress -

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APPROACH--2 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip to the 8,400 foot base.

TOTAL TIME--7 to 16 days

VERTICAL GAIN--6,100 feet

DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Very hard mixed rock and ice climbing (5.9, A3); vertical and overhanging ice is found on the crux (400 foot "shaft"); spindrift avalanches and a dangerous exit up avalanche prone summit slopes.

CAMPS--Hanging bivouacs or small chopped out ledges until 12,000 feet.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2002-05-16
Views: 749
Route ID: 15791