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American Caesar - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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JJ Schlick
Rock (Trad)
Small cams and wires to #1 camelot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Starts left of Tainted Love. Moves into a clean corner which gets more difficult as you go. Get psyched for the high crux with your last pro well below your feet.

Descent Options:


Submitted by: crackmd on 2009-08-01
Views: 723
Route ID: 101124

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2011-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars So much fun!

This corner gives you exactly what you need when you desperately need it. The crux for me came at the top when i stemmed hard and dropped my shoulder and arm chimney body scum style into the corner thinking i could rest like that. Started slowly sliding down then had to do the most desperate foot scums to correct my mistake. Amazing finger pockets when you need them and improbable crimps up high. I love routes that make you bust it over nuts cuz you have no other choice but to go. Maybe i just don't like thinking too hard. Its airy so go for it.

Added: 2011-06-02

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackmd on 2009-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars chickened out

on my first try. The moves to the finish were quite heady with pro a ways below. When I approached it with full awareness of this, it didn't seem too bad.

Added: 2009-08-01