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Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Central : Oak Creek Waterfall : Fall Wall : Locks of Dread

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Locks of Dread - 5.12b

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Double set small cams. Nothing larger than 0.5 Camelot. Small wires at crux.
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Starts right of Barbarian Rising. Easy start to fun fingers/off-fingers. Rest up for tough boulderly crux protected by the smallest wires you own. Remains on you until the finish.

Descent Options:

lower

Submitted by: crackmd on 2009-08-01
Views: 649
Route ID: 101123

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: A-Bowl on 2012-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Casual locks to wild crux

originally done straight up the corner and the first 12... both stats boggle the mind. Climbed the slappy arete to the right and protected in the pockets. I think that is the standard way to do it and it still feels solid for 12b.

Added: 2012-01-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crackmd on 2009-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool crux sequence

otherwise not too bad. Gear was hard to come by in this crux. This climb would be a quite impressive onsight but a pedestrian flash.

Added: 2009-08-01