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Wood Canyon

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Climbing Sections:

About Wood Canyon:

The main wall in Wood Canyon is a large, black outcrop that towers just east from the road. The wall faces west and at its highest is roughly 30 meters. A few sport routes exist with more trad and mixed routes. Once cleaned, the rock typically can take great gear. The rock appears to be a perlite flow apart of the Picket Post Volcanic series. Somewhat similar to a basalt flow in how it climbs. Many routes still have loose rock and climbers, belayers, and dogs should be careful! Also, there are lots of scorpions, bats, snakes, and more on the climbs and in the area. The first crack that was climbed here found a Chuckwalla was found 20 meters up jammed inside the crack. The wall faces west and with the dark rock, it can get pretty hot. Be respectful to the OHV, horseback riders, hunters, and other using Wood Canyon. It generally is a secluded and quiet place. Not much shade once the sun goes up until it goes behind the hills. Most routes have rappel anchors with quick links or steel lockers. You may want to bring some quick links along on your lead. The steel lockers are not booty; please leave them. Top roping can be difficult on some of the climbs as you may have to extend the anchors. Most anchors are over the edge of the cliff and not easily reached from above. More potential exists for easy trad climbs on the south side of the wall for those willing to do the cleaning. The ethic here is to not bolt mostly protect-able lines. The cracks and pockets take nuts and cams well. A single set of nuts along with a single, or if you like to sew it up, a double set of cams. You could camp here, it's all USFS Tonto NF land. Lots of bees in the flowers at the base, but no hives in the rock. Dog friendly if it isn't too hot.
Nearest town or city: Superior
Directions: South of Superior. Check out the map. Take Arnett Road from 177 to the turnoff to the south. Stay straight on this road over a concrete cattle guard, through a wash, and veer left and the intersection. Stay straight on the main road into Wood Canyon till you see the wall on your left along with a road. Park and follow the cairns. The trail stays left and flat and goes left up the drainage and then up the hill. You can get to the top of the cliff by going up a path (see topo) on the north end. Any 4x4 high clearance vehicle can make it easily. I can make it there with 7 inches of clearance. It can be a bit rough in spots and if it rains there can be some muddy sections.
Latitude, Longitude: 33.23363, -111.11190
Access Issues:
Camping: Free
When to Climb: Autumn Spring Winter
Quantity of Climbs: Day


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Down on the Pharm 5.5 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Scorpion's Retreat 5.9 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Shorty Sporty 5.5 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Thought Reform 5.6 1
0 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Trouble No More 5.8 2
15 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Redonkulous 5.6 0

Topo Images

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Most Recent Photo

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