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Ides of Middlemarch - 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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Beware the Ides of...Guidebook calls this 5.9+, but I would definitely not recommend this to a 5.9 climber, I say why in my comments below. The guidebook description is pretty good, but we had some uncertainty about the first pitch. Look for the little mini-dihedral starting about 20-30 feet up (I wouldn't call it a "straight-in finger crack" like Kerry does) between the two huge dihedrals. Just above the mini-dihedral is a down-sloping roof that you have to crank on its right side as per Kerry (click on my username below and view my comments if you want beta). Very little fixed gear, poorly-protected crux, the pro and rock quality vary in quality, IMO this is an adventure route better suited for a 5.10 and up climber.

Submitted by: mandrake on 2005-11-14
Views: 1281
Route ID: 71749

2 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: lou on 2005-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Sandbagged rating....not for 5.9 leaders....first pitch goes up right diagnoling slab to rounded buldge reachhhyy.. with no pro for the crux 5.10 move...injury potential...last pitch is 5.10 awkward as is good....(3 cam)... overall....hmmmm 5.10R is more like it......

Added: 2005-11-13

Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2005-11-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Beta alert! At the sloping roof on p1, you stem high and crank up and snag a good hold on the dike (this is the crux 5.9+ or harder maybe). This move is probably 10-15 feet up and right of the last gear below the roof. There's no pro here or anywhere along this dike until you get back left to the big dihedral. So yer looking at a 20'+ penji fall onto a slab if you blow the crux. And you simply don't fall traversing back to the dihedral along the dike. Plus, if the second blows it, he (or she) gets to penji back left into the dihedral. It's an unprotected traverse, so ev-rybody gets to lead!

Added: 2005-11-13