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North Buttress - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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1 set of nuts, 4-6 TCUs (00 thru 2, or the whole set), .75 and #3 C4s, & a few hexes for mid sizes.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


Detailed topo here
7-9 pitches, depending on how you climb it.
P1: 4th class slab to 5.8 thin hands
P2: 5.8 hand/fist crack in a corner. Traverse left to a ledge to belay. (P1&P1 can be linked if you solo the 4th class slab and belay at the ledge just before the 5.8 tight hands pitch)
P3: Look for a piton in the face to the left and traverse past it and into a chimney. Supplement the piton with the available placement just below and right of it. Either chimney (looks hard!) or climb the face (protected w/ TCUs) left of the chimney to a loose section of easy rock. Sling a boulder just below the big tower on the left for a belay.
P4: A short, loose pitch leads to a ledge just below a steep, thin crack pitch.
P5: Lead up the thin cracks in the corner to a ledge.
P6: lead up the crack system in the chimney to a belay above. (P5 & P6 can be linked).
P7: Follow easy 5th class terrain up the ridge to the right of the big tower to a talus covered ledge.
P8: Climb up and left in cracks to a tunnel through to a big ledge.
P9: Climb steep cracks straight up the ridge then to a mantle on to the summit or head left to easier terrain and miss out on the awesome topout!

Submitted by: trenchdigger on 2005-08-15
Views: 908
Route ID: 68900

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4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2003-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not the best Sierras route

This was my first alpine route in the Sierras after I moved to CA and I was afraid it was representative. Luckily, I have found that most other Sierras classics are worlds better. This route has some good views and positions, but the rock quality is quite poor.

Added: 2007-03-30

Onsight Onsight ascent by: trenchdigger on 2005-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

7 pitches. 12 hrs car-car

Added: 2005-08-13

Onsight Onsight ascent by: pierredestcroix on 2004-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: Julian Wixson, Andrew Swain
Added: 2004-07-05

Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanmfreeman on 2004-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-02-25