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Jaws of Life - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Sport)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


2 pitches. The first pitch follows some bolts from Nice Jugs but then diverges to the left to a 2 bolt anchor. Afterwards, a 5.10 corner crack system ranging from hands to easy offwidth leads up past some more bolts to another bolted anchor. No need to bring any pro; its well (over) bolted. 2 raps to descend.

Submitted by: radioface on 2007-12-19
Views: 1180
Route ID: 91452

2 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bolts?

This was a stellar slightly overhanging hand crack, a couple fists and a short easy offwidth (about 8ft). Even though it was a good route I couldn't get over how stupid the bolting was. Not even so much that it was a bolted splitter crack, that's normal for the Gorge but where they were placed which was behind you. I ended up doing Houdini moves to reach around and clip draws behind me on almost every bolt. The bolting was pretty lame but the climbing is good. It would probably be easier to just protect the crack with gear than to reach behind you to clip every five feet. I also agree, way overbolted. Book says gear to 7". Bogus, bring a double rack to 3" and that will be way more than enough.

Added: 2010-11-28

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2007-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Jaws of Life

Pretty fun route, but it would be nice if it wasn't so over-bolted. It would protect well with gear too.

Added: 2007-12-19