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Stairway to Heaven - 5.4

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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NO BOLTS!! This is REAL TRAD. 1 set Nuts, 1 each cam's .75, 1, 2. large Hexes good for belays.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
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  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Same start as Triple Play, only keep going up and left. You will pass a tree (bomber belay, btw) and go into a chimney section. This route is extremely mungy, but goes all the way up. I mostly expected it to be an aid seam, but it turned out to be an easy free climb mostly the whole way. It was extremely dirty, long, and fun. 5-7 pitches of climbing (depending on belays). Go up the class 4 gully to the left of shadow wall, and follow that line all the way to the summit. Overall rating of the route: 5.4 2 pitches 5.5 3-4 pitches 5.6 1 chimney pitch Better with a partner No stars because the route has too many trees and shrubs. Also, get used to belaying from bushes equalized with a #5 stopper and a 0 TCU, cuz, thats what happens on the second to last pitch. Also, once you reach a more flat section with a BIG place to lie down (trust me, a rest is good at this point), stop roping up, cuz you are about 100' from the top, and its all 3rd class from there (that is a good place to pack up the rack and start shuttle gear to the top). After that point, you have one 5.5 chimney move (5.3 without a pack) to a trial leading to the top. Notes: bring two ropes for a couple traversing pitches, and retreat is not an option (at least not a fun or easy one).

Submitted by: redox on 2004-12-02
Views: 1161
Route ID: 16900

2 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: redox on 2002-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

First Free Solo WILL be tomorrow.

Added: 2002-09-19

Onsight Onsight ascent by: redox on 2002-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Enjoyed this solo, I would recommend it to people armed with a wire brush for some of the munge and an appetite for adventure, cuz its fun.

Added: 2002-05-05