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Pip's Pillar - 5.8

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Facing the middle of Hogsback, you'll see a lone tall pine tree up some class 3/4. Just to the west is a good plateau for belaying. The route starts on a left facing dihedral. You can go up 100' to a 8"x2.5' ledge. You can use nuts to set up an anchor here. There's an old piton that is 8' above the ledge. You can make the top from here. Or you can go set up another belay station 100' up on a sloping triangular ledge. The top is only 25' from here. The final moves involve jamming up a crack in a large block. You can also traverse a couple of feet the right and mantle up the block using dikes for good hands. And there's a totally random knob for your left foot. The move reminds me of the gym.... davidji's edit-- In the Supertopo they call the route you described "Harvey's Wallbanger Center, 5.6". Carville's guide shows it as Pip's Pillar, and shows HWC as being immediately to the left. Supertopo calls this one mostly 5.4 with some 5.6 sections (lieback & fingers), which makes more sense to me, because the optional 5.7 top out move was the hardest move on the climb.

Submitted by: davidji on 2004-06-03
Views: 1789
Route ID: 17719

4 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: jenner on 2006-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-06-10

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: floof on 2002-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I got stuck on Harvey's Wallbanger Left and bailed to this route. Got pretty cold in shorts and t-shirt....

Added: 2002-05-26

Red Point Red Point ascent by: elmosity on 2001-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun route. The rock is much different than the other areas of the leap. Seemed hard to protect in certain spots.

Witnessed by: Scott
Added: 2001-05-06

Red Point Red Point ascent by: greg on 1989-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 1989-10-18