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Routes : North America : United States : California : Orange County : Beach-Pirates Cove, The

Beach-Pirates Cove, The

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About Beach-Pirates Cove, The :

Open year around. During summer there are restrictions on climbing times. On cloudy days, or days with rain, holds are extremely greasy. Pirates Cove was developed in the early 70s by Rick Accomasso, Robs Muir, and Steve West. Later, Spencer Lennard, Randy Vogel, Dave Evans, and Craig Fry established problems until the early 80s. During the 80s, many new problems were not put up, but were redone due to the erosion of the sandstone. Climbing is mainly steep to overhanging sandy jugs above the sand. Recommended equipment is a chalkbag, brush, shoes, and a piece of carpet to get sand off shoes. The Beach used to be a happening place. This was before Rockcreation came to town. This is an area that actually improves with climbing pressure. The nature of the rock requires frequent cleaning and travel. A very relaxing scene. Well worth a visit. Keep in mind the Santa Ana winds.They will breath life not only into your soul but The Beach as well. The rock dries out and offers the best quality it has to give. Give it a go. Not a bad place to hang in the evening.
Nearest town or city: Corona Del Mar
Directions: Located in Newport Beach, California. Take the PCH to Marguerite (signal 1/4 mile south of McArthur Blvd) and make a turn west (toward the coast). Go 2 blocks to Ocean, turn right (north). Park in the parking area (fee; down hill to left (west)), or on Ocean Blvd. just a bit further north. Where Ocean makes a sharp right, you will see a small grassy "park" on the blufftop. Hike down steps her to the "cove" below. Map
Latitude, Longitude: 33.59490, -117.87810
Access Issues: During height of beach season (summer) climbing is restricted till after 5pm. This is sort of a verbal agreement between life guards and climbers from what I can tell. This is only in effect if it is crowded down there I would guess.
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Month

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Forum Discussions (7 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
No Replies Anabelle Destroyed southswell 0 Jun 07 2008, 4:42 AM
With Replies Pirates Cove - Beta? Guidebook? meatball 5 Aug 05 2012, 10:35 PM
With Replies SoCal- Gary Yosh's email? mungeclimber 1 Apr 23 2005, 12:32 AM
No Replies conditions collegekid 0 Aug 25 2003, 5:00 AM
No Replies missing climb calimouth 0 Jan 11 2003, 9:07 PM
No Replies How bout a beach cleanup? poorclimber 0 Dec 01 2002, 10:18 AM
No Replies The Right Directions beethovenboy 0 Aug 02 2002, 6:51 AM