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The Souvineer - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
Tiny to #3 cam, bring micro nuts, one set of nuts, 1 #3 and doubles of .4-2. 2 foot slings for trees and 4 footser work well too. a few bolts and about 10 pins
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


First pitch-Climb up 4th class to belay at ledge same as the error. Second pitch-climb up the to the right of the 5.8 dihedral traverse roof to the right and clip fixed pins for pro. Very sustained roof. 5.10c. Continue up to belay ledge. Third Pitch-Crux pitch, climb right leaning small hands crack to small tree, then up past one bolt. Make sure you have your micro nuts for this pitch. Then work your way up and very this and sustained seam, protect the bottom with a .4 cam. Climb seam to bolt and past 3 more bolts, crux 5.10d. This pitch still keeps going, it is 165 feet long. COntinue up crack that is 2-3 inches to a ledge where you will belay. 4th pitch-Be carefull with the loose blocks on this one above the belay, you dont want to knock these suckers off. From here its 5.9, i would rate it a 10c/d, remember this was first acended in 1960's so the grades tend to be stiff. For the rest of the climb follow crack system and connect pitches to make it 6 or 7 pitches. You decide where you want to belay but there is a fixed pin and a crack that works well. You can combine the 5 and 6 pitch and then a short 7th pitch. then once at the top 4th class scramble to the summit.

Descent Options:

North face 3rd class walk off.

Submitted by: fearlessclimber on 2007-05-04
Views: 887
Route ID: 85488

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: scottydo on 2011-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool, but tough

This was definitely tough. I went around the roof section but there was some super tough slabby sections that we ended up pulling bolts on. Cool though

Added: 2011-10-04

  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: fearlessclimber on 2007-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Can you say sand?

Ya i almost had to bail off this route because of the runout roof and sustained sandbag on this route. Done in the 60's by sone hardass climbers i assume. All around an awesome climb. Unless you are a 12 trad climber getting up this is going to be a bitch.

Added: 2007-04-30