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About Mt. Diablo:

If you don't know how to climb 'low-impact' on sandstone, don't do it here! The rock here is already innundated with initials and garbage, and there are way too many rope scars. Don't climb after it has rained as the sandstone is weak.

There are two main areas of climbing in Mt. Diablo State Park. Boy Scout Rocks (Butt Rocks) are closer to the south gate of the park, which has 80-90 ft. faces including the classic route 'The Amazing Face'.

Closer to the North Gate is Pine Canyon. The climbing experience In Pine Canyon as opposed to The Boy Scout rocks are like apples and oranges. At the Boy Scout rocks you'll find lots of rap anchors, well protected routes, high foot traffic, over use, routes nearly on top of one another and someone with a top rope on nearly everything. Pine Canyon is a whole nother story. In Pine Canyon you'll find a different set of ethics. The routes here were mostly put up as a ground up assault resulting in a more adventurous nature to the routes. The canyon has been able to avoid the recent surge of grid bolted routes alot of other places have seen. Hopefully it will stay that way, as this style of development is shnned upon by the locals. The canyon features several two pitch climbs, some of the best crack systems that are well protectable in the bay area and a few adventureous old school style routes that are well worth the effort. This is also an area that rarely sees a line in front of a climb. The canyon probably sees more days than climbers in a year. Steep trails, thick brush and the adventurous nature of the routes keep most crag climbers away. Also the rateings of some of the climbs should be taken with a grain of salt, 5.7 can be thin and runnout while 5.10 can be well protected with no recognizeable crux. More than just a set of quickdraws are required to climb here. Nearly half the routes take some pro. You can get away with a rack of 1ea .4-3' cams, double .75-2' cams.Poison oak is not much of a problem accept around The Teeth, Deliverence rock and to the right of The Rock of Ages. Pine Canyon is closed Feb. 1 - June 30 each year for raptor nesting.

Bathrooms are located at the campgrounds, and there is a $6 entrance fee. Routes are sandstone and chip off easily sometimes, use caution. Bring extra long runners if you want to toprope on boyscout rocks. 20+ feet. People have horribly abused Mt. Diablo, its really a shame, but its still a fun place to climb.

Nearest town or city: Danville
Directions: Park at the Rock City parking lot, go back to the South Gate road and walk south 1/4 mile to a downhill trail past the rock face on your right, this will lead you to Boy Scout Rocks. Don't park on the side of the road in the dirt right by the rocks. Yes people park there, I didn't know it was illegal, and I got a $45 dollar ticket last week.

For Pine Canyon park along the road next to the fire road sign 1 mile south of north gate. It requires about a 2 mile hike from the road to reach the rocks, mostly up a steep hill on the way in. Or avoid the park fee and park in the Castle Rock parking area at the end of Castle Rock Rd. The approach is 1/4 of a mile, mostly flat and puts you at the base of the canyon.

Latitude, Longitude: 37.84875, -121.93138
Access Issues: THE ABOVE APPROACH INFO INFO IS ERRONEOUS.parking address is 1700 Castle Rock Road, Walnut Creek, Ca. Drive out Ygnacio Valley
Camping: Yes
When to Climb: Autumn
Quantity of Climbs: Week

Topo Images

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The Unsung War
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Most Recent Photos (See all 35 photos)

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Forum Discussions (7 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Stolen Climbing Gear EdLori2005 5 Nov 11 2010, 1:04 PM
With Replies Bouldering Mt. Diablo rickyh009 1 May 28 2009, 2:25 PM
With Replies looking for Pine Canyon, Mt. Diablo beta bler 5 Jul 23 2005, 5:43 AM
With Replies Rock City whitedevil 2 Sep 18 2004, 9:44 PM
With Replies Mt Diablo (Bay Area in CA) Climbing Threatened roughster 2 Oct 17 2003, 5:31 PM
With Replies Pictures @ mt. Diablo shortsavage 9 Aug 09 2004, 8:30 PM
With Replies Thanx to Eddie Clark... rrrADAM 1 Nov 20 2001, 4:10 AM