Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Sorcerer : Don Juan Wall
Don Juan Wall - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Standard free rack with double aliens or TCU's.
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Description:
A brilliant line just left of Thin Ice. Fantastic climbing over 6-pitches. Pitch 1 is the same as Thin Ice, but traverse left at the top of the intial 5.9 flake. The second pitch is crux 1. Head up the crack, over the bulge, through the flaring crux and to the belay. Pitch 3 is crux 2, a nasty flaring slot with devious and difficult pro. Pitch 4 and 5 can be combined and is a wonderful pitch. On pitch six head right, do not be fooled and head up the OW above the belay. Head right, stem out, and undercling an overhanging corner. Small aliens are your pro. Then head up and right to the top. 2 60m raps.
Submitted by: bellatoris on 2003-07-08
Views: 1639
Route ID: 18295
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16 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 16 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Second ascent by: leoand23 on 2016-09-16
(View Climbing Log)
What a hard route
Lead P1, and followed everything else clean except for the 10d where I slipped and scraped my left fingers pretty good pass the chimney.
Second pitch was the money pitch with amazing finger locks everywhere. Crux was sustained and heady but good holds are there to be found; keep moving.
Second pitch was the money pitch with amazing finger locks everywhere. Crux was sustained and heady but good holds are there to be found; keep moving.
Added: 2016-09-19
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by: glahhg on 2012-08-09
(View Climbing Log)
:)
Way physical. Scotty hauled my ass up this thing.
Added: 2012-08-22
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: bandidopeco on 2008-09-07
(View Climbing Log)
great route
More physical then Atlantis. Nearly injured my shoulder on the last pitch when my foot slipped after I got the good hand jamb at the end of the roof traverse on the last pitch. didn't fall, but could only climb easier stuff for a few days.
oh yeah, if you don't like rope drag, place a large stopper at the lip of the traverse.
Felt harder then Atlantis, but I had to take a huge poop all day so....
oh yeah, if you don't like rope drag, place a large stopper at the lip of the traverse.
Felt harder then Atlantis, but I had to take a huge poop all day so....
Added: 2008-09-14
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-07-23
(View Climbing Log)
fantastic
I found the flaring third pitch the crux too. There are two methods. The strong guy pinching arete method, and the knee and arm bar creeping thrutch.
Added: 2008-07-23
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
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Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-06-20
(View Climbing Log)
Fun
Did it in three pitches. Thought the third pitch was harder than the locker fingers (crux) pitch. Roof at the top was cool.
Added: 2008-06-22