Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior
Romantic Warrior - 5.12b
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Pro to 3"; bring heavy on the small cams, nuts, and brass. The three inch piece is only utilized on
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Description:
An incredible corner system! Aside from somewhat flaky rock here and there...the climbing is stellar. Being quite comfortable at stemming and placing micro gear is a plus on this route.
Submitted by: phoenix on 2005-10-24
Views: 2225
Route ID: 71140
3 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Hang Dog ascent by: ascanio on 2007-06-10
(View Climbing Log)
Amazing route
w/ Hristo
Added: 2007-06-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: bandycoot on 2007-09-16
(View Climbing Log)
It was fun trying!
Redpointed on Sept 16, 2007. Below are my previous notes.
Pulled some pro falling on the pitch 4 mantle, including the last piton. The resulting 30(+?)' whipper shook me up and my partner took over most of the leading. In short, I was a little bitch. A #6 HB offset works GREAT right under the mantle.
Need to work on my fingertip campusing for pitch 5. The Book of Deception pitch will be a bitch to redpoint. I TR'd it clean first try, but leading it is another story since the gear is so tricky with a ledge under it. Nuts appear to work great for this pitch.
Gear:
One set of RPs
One set of HB offsets
One set of Medium nuts
Ballnuts 2-4
1 000 C3
1 00 metolius TCU
2 0 TCU
4 1 TCU (5 wouldn't hurt)
3 2 TCU
2 3 TCU
1 0.5 C4
2 0.75 C4
1 1 C4
Bring #2 and #3 size if you can't run it out on easy territory. I didn't set either of them on any of the first four pitches and it stays thin after the first two pitches. You could use a #2 camalot on the Book of Deception, but it looks like a smaller cam would work just as well. (Post redpoint edit: If you're strong don't bring one of the #1 Metolius the ballnuts or the 00 Metolius).
Pulled some pro falling on the pitch 4 mantle, including the last piton. The resulting 30(+?)' whipper shook me up and my partner took over most of the leading. In short, I was a little bitch. A #6 HB offset works GREAT right under the mantle.
Need to work on my fingertip campusing for pitch 5. The Book of Deception pitch will be a bitch to redpoint. I TR'd it clean first try, but leading it is another story since the gear is so tricky with a ledge under it. Nuts appear to work great for this pitch.
Gear:
One set of RPs
One set of HB offsets
One set of Medium nuts
Ballnuts 2-4
1 000 C3
1 00 metolius TCU
2 0 TCU
4 1 TCU (5 wouldn't hurt)
3 2 TCU
2 3 TCU
1 0.5 C4
2 0.75 C4
1 1 C4
Bring #2 and #3 size if you can't run it out on easy territory. I didn't set either of them on any of the first four pitches and it stays thin after the first two pitches. You could use a #2 camalot on the Book of Deception, but it looks like a smaller cam would work just as well. (Post redpoint edit: If you're strong don't bring one of the #1 Metolius the ballnuts or the 00 Metolius).
Added: 2007-05-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty |
Red Point ascent by: phoenix on 2005-10-18
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
I had been on this route six years ago and taken a bad fall due to a missing pin on the second 12a crux. A couple of weeks ago I went back and fired all the pitches first go. I redpointed to my previous highpoint and then onsighted the 12.b pitch and the 11.d pitch by headlamp. We topped out in the dark and rapped the route. I don't recommend rapping this route.
Witnessed by: Andrew Philbin
Added: 2005-10-18
Added: 2005-10-18