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Snake & Half a Snake - 5.7

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Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Jan, 1970 and Jan 11, 2008
Rock (Trad)
Tiny to medium stoppers, tiny to medium cams in the crux section, larger cams up higher.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


From the top of the Turret an easy wide crack used to curved like a snake up and left. This was the Snake route listed in the old guidebooks. It was a very pretty but easy route. Sometime in the last 10 or 20 years the slab that formed the left side of the crack fell off, leaving a left facing open book, the Half a Snake. The crack in the corner is too small for fingers at the beginning and at several spots along the climb. There are enough handholds on the dihedral to get one past the thin spots to where the crack has good hand holds. There is quite a bit of moss in the crack down low, but you should be able to reach past it without damaging it. The footholds on the face are pure friction. Near the top of the book, handhold knobs appear which allow easy hand traversing. Just before the crack goes horizontally left, step over the book onto the knobs and traverse right to an obvious ledge. This ledge makes an easy belay spot for a short pitch or you can continue climbing and belay up above someplace. The pretty dihedrals and roofs above are easy because of the low angle and multitude of big footholds. This is one of the prettiest routes at Tollhouse though and makes for good pictures. The Snake route went from the top of the Turret all the way to the summit. Half a Snake refers only to the new open book in the first fifty feet. The original Snake was climbed in January of 1970, but the Half a Snake may have been climbed only as recently as January of 2008.

Descent Options:

This route ends on the summit just to the left of the cap rocks.

Submitted by: fresnoflats on 2009-02-03
Views: 546
Route ID: 97634