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Swallow - 5.10a

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Route sequence (left to right): 15
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Bolts, but a few small cams are also handy at the beginning and under the roof.
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This route is between Balls and Headwall on the Tollhouse main face. The third pitch goes through the center of a prominent arching roof. Balls goes around the left side of the roof, while Headwall goes around the right side. 1st pitch. Start on a right leaning crack that is the start of the Headwall route. About 40 feet up, leave the crack and go straight up to a small undercling roof. Continue straight up past bolts over easier climbing to a belay. 2nd pitch. Follow bolts straight up to the center of the arching roof. Small pro can be placed in the crack under the roof. The move over the roof is fairly easy. But the bolts above protect steep and thin face climbing, 10a, to a bolted belay. This is a long pitch of perhaps 55 meters. 3rd pitch. Easy face leads to a large ledge where many other routes also end. Climbers can scramble up left to the summit from here or continue climbing up Munge Master or At Your Leisure. Swallow was first climbed, rope solo, in about 1982, as a variation to Balls without new belay stations and only one bolt above the roof. Barry Chambers and I returned in 2007 to add a direct start, good belay stations and a safer number of protection bolts. With decent protection and good belays, the route is now a safe and quality route.

Submitted by: fresnoflats on 2009-02-03
Views: 575
Route ID: 92845