Skip to Content

Upper Traverse - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 17
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
Nuts and stoppers to 1 1/2 inches and slings to reduce rope drag.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


Starts in a tree choked gulley between "Free and Easy" and "Desperado." (1) Follow the chimney gully, passing through a manzanita bush, for 130' of easy climbing. Stay in the gully all the way up. Belay on a comfortable small ledge in an area of large blocks. (2) Short pitch. Climb a wavy edged series of flakes (5.6). Exit left to a bolt on the face and belay from it. (3) Climb up 20 feet to a permanent piton. Make an unprotected 5.6 traverse straight left 20 feet to a ledge. Now face climb up and right on easier rock to a large ledge with a double bolt belay on its far right side. (Caution for 5.6 leaders: DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP FROM THE FIXED PITON because that will be over a 40 foot runout with no protection at all.) To finish the climb scramble up and left 50' to reach an easy deep crack and ramp to the top. FA by George Sessions and Merle Alley, February 1958.

Descent Options:

Climb to the summit.

Submitted by: ropeboy on 2009-02-03
Views: 752
Route ID: 76374

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Fresnoandy on 2009-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars OK

Thought it was the real Traverse. Cool little bulge before the top.

Added: 2010-05-14