Pass the Pitons Pete and I slayed this monster in ten easy days of waking late and having coffee. We had two Grade VI pigs, a Grade V piglet, and a Grade VII "Blue Whale". We used two static haul lines, with the piglet and blue whale hung below the pigs. We flagged our ledges above the pigs, and hung other loads (sleeping bags, wallflowers, etc.) below with the piglet and blue whale. We took a 5 gallon bucket full of oranges, apples, avocados and grapefruit. The locals told us that from the ground that it looked like a circus, with stuff hung from top to bottom of each pitch. We had 2 #5 Camalots, 2 #7 Valley Giants, 6 #9 Valley Giants and 2 #12 Valley Giants. I crackwalked all the big stuff, running it out 40 feet between pro, so we had more than enough big gear. There are at least five pitches on this route with WIDE cracks; commercial gear need not apply. The free climbing crux was a 5.8 no pro "crack" at the start of P17, which was actually where the corners of two big blocks came together at their edges. The aid crux was P6. The bivy crux is the top of 25, Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivy: perfectly flat floor and roof above, but only 12 inches high. The top of P10 is a large cave with a perfect roof crack; it would make the perfect storm bivy. P24 and P25 can be linked with a 60m rope. You can haul pitches 27 and 28 together from the summit with a 70m rope, or drop down 30m to an off-route ledge and haul 40m to there first. P27 is a traverse across a slab, and would be a nightmare to haul. Hauling P28 from the end of P27 also looked bad. The direct haul is a straight, mostly free-hanging line. The best bivy was at the top of 23, the Round Table. I slept on the ledge itself because my homemade porta was basically destroyed by then.
Witnessed by: PTPP